Jewelry designers have long been enchanted by the sea. It’s a subject rich in beauty, myth, and romance – all classic elements of fine jewelry.

The famed marine explorer, Jacques Cousteau, perfectly captures the allure of underwater life in his statement: “The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”

This “net of wonder” is vast in size, capturing the artists’ imagination and transforming it into many mediums. Creative inspiration is found across the centuries in various art forms: from Herman Melville’s Moby Dick, to 19^th century painter Renoir’s Still Life with Fish, to Pixar’s Finding Nemo.

The name of this diamond, ruby, black diamond and tourmaline piece, “Nemo,” tells the inspiration for jewelry artist Ricardo Basta. Image courtesy of Ricardo Basta.

A few facts help explain why the sea beckons the jewelry designer. Below the surface of the waves lies an underwater kingdom of more than 27,000 different species of fish. They range in size from the massive whale shark, which can grow to 50+ feet; to the tiny Timmatom nanus of the Indo-west Pacific, which is a mere one centimeter. This incredible diversity of life provides an endless source of inspiration.

Courtesy Vartanian & Sons

This sailfish brooch by Tiffany & Co. is made with pavé set diamonds, gold, and platinum. Superb craftsmanship and masterful enameling (notice the blues and greens on the fins and head) make this piece extremely lifelike. Courtesy Vartanian & Sons

Angelfish brooch is made of diamonds, blue sapphires, coral and gold. Image courtesy of Ricardo Basta

Another playful piece from Ricardo Basta, this Angelfish brooch is made of diamonds, blue sapphires, coral and gold. Weaving its way through a coral bed, the little fellow looks like he’s swimming happily through life.

Which of these might you like to reel in for your personal collection?

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Wondering where to start in creating your jewelry wardrobe? GIA put together this list of 11 Peices of Jewelry Every Women Should Own. Jewelry essentials to ensure that you have the perfect accessory for any event. Click on the image below to see a larger view. Bookmark and share!

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Once destined for industrial use, low-quality rough diamonds were thought to have too many impurities or inclusions to be used in high-end rings, bracelets, and necklaces.  But today, these diamonds are making their way into luxury jewelry. So why the sudden interest?

Rough diamonds are fashionable in part because they are natural and unaltered. An additional factor in the rising popularity of rough diamonds is that they are generally less expensive than polished diamonds. In many cases, jewelry featuring colored rough diamonds provides a more affordable alternative to colored polished diamonds, which while very popular, are also very expensive.

Uncut diamonds are readily available in a rainbow of colors, as seen in these chandelier earrings from the “Astra” collection by Diamonds in the Rough. These stunning earrings feature 45.95 carats of rough diamonds ranging in color from dark brown to light yellow, accented with 1.97 carats of polished diamonds.

Jewelry with rough diamonds also has an artisanal look. Jewelry connoisseurs prize one-of-a-kind, handmade jewelry, and rough diamonds fit the part.

Designers are showcasing the natural beauty of the stones as they emerged from the earth, generally  untouched by human hand. Todd Reed, a designer who pioneered the style, made this provocative statement about diamonds: “the most perfect cut is still an uncut.”

This 20.25 carat diamond bracelet by Todd Reed looks edgy and ancient. The design is raw contemporary, yet the piece resembles a cobblestone road or a Roman fort.

Rough diamonds have become so popular that they’re showing up as center stones in engagement rings – traditionally the domain of polished, faceted beauties.

These modern engagement rings by Diamonds in the Rough have a contemporary design, yet the rough diamonds give them an ancient look. For the bride wanting a truly unique, one-of-a-kind ring, a rough diamond might be just the thing.

Diamond slices – thinly sliced sections of large, highly included rough diamonds – have also been making their way into jewelry. The idea, say designers who create these pieces, is to cut the rough to show interesting patterns while keeping the stone’s original outline. In the same way that the rarity of a diamond is a contributing factor to its cost, the more interesting the inclusions and their patterns are in a diamond slice, the higher the price.

A diamond slice hangs from an 18ct blackened white gold chain. Designer Susan Foster calls this slate-grey diamond slice design an “opulent finishing touch” for evening wear.

What seems to be sudden interest in rough diamonds is actually not new. Indian jewelers have long recognized the beauty of uncut gemstones. The tradition of using them is centuries old, and it still continues in modern design houses

So are rough diamonds a fashion fixture or a flash on the scene?

The green movement is growing. One-of-a-kind jewelry is in demand. Rough diamonds are affordable. Put these trends together, and the future for jewelry with rough diamonds is bright.

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After years of hiding in the watery depths, mermaids, mythical half-human sea creatures, are surfacing everywhere – in a provocative photo shoot in the December 2013 issue of W ; on countless Starbucks’ cups (the mermaid is their corporate logo); in television shows like Mermaids and H20: Just Add Water; Pinterest, Etsy, and on bridesmaid accessories and wedding dresses.

A spray of ocean blues and whites, this mermaid is perfectly depicted in an opal carving.

The myth of the mermaid dates back at least 4,000 years, and is found in virtually every culture. They were often portrayed as temptresses that dragged sailors to watery graves, but recently have been depicted as benevolent creatures.

Mermaids are complex symbols. They were embodiments of feminine power, temptation, forbidden fruit, and death, but have since lost their darker edge – in no small part due to movies and television shows like Splash, Aquamarine, and Pirates of the Caribbean. They’re now typically shown as friendly creatures that help mankind and bestow supernatural powers.

While you decide if mermaids are dangerous or domesticated, we can safely take a dip with some bejeweled ones.

“Morgana’s Dream” by Tom McPhee’s. Carved in a pastel bicolored beryl. Gift of Mark Mauthner.

Dreamlike…whimsical…endearing – these are the emotions conjured by Tom McPhee’s Morgana’s Dream. A pastel bicolored beryl is a soothing choice for depicting the princess of the sea asleep on her watery bed.

Lion’s paw shell clip by Verdura. Courtesy of A La Vieille Russie.

This Lion’s paw shell clip by Verdura, glistens in a receding wave of diamonds set in gold. Mermaids are often depicted sitting on a sea shell throne. A sea shell is a natural ocean treasure, so it’s well suited to the elemental nature of the mermaid.

Ariel Quartz Carving by Tom McPhee.

Ariel, a quartz carving by Tom McPhee, looks like the kind of mermaid who lured men to their death. Raw, sensual, and with a head of tangled seaweed hair, Ariel represents untamed Mother Nature.

Pierre Touraine’s Octotilla Cactus. Courtesy of Touraine Family Trust.

Pierre Touraine’s “Octotilla Cactus” looks like branches of sea kelp waving in the ocean current. Made of 18K gold, rubies, and diamonds, placed on a bed/base of azurmalachite, the piece could be decorating the entrance of a mermaid’s lair.

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Sleek. Simple. Sophisticated.

It’s Zen Style – jewelry that has clean lines and uncomplicated shapes. There’s little in the way of ornamentation and embellishment. Its beauty comes from artful construction and the pairing of contrasting shapes and colors.

Erik Stewart’s Zen ring captures the spirit of the style. It has a simple, austere beauty that speaks of peace.

Many people are attracted to this style of jewelry because it’s a visual antidote to the fast pace of modern life – a wearable piece of peace. And that’s something that crosses international boundaries. Whether you’re in New York, Hong Kong, Buenos Aries, Beijing, Mumbai or Rome, the hustle and bustle of modern life creates a natural draw to visual serenity.

This “Omega Round” ring, features a round brilliant diamond, tension set in platinum, by Steven Kretchmer is an example of Zen design. Simple shapes are used to make something beautiful…organic…fluid. Courtesy of Steven Kretchmer.

Zen Style owes its inspiration to traditional Japanese art. If you really want to appreciate this style of design, you have to understand where it first flowered.

Wabi (simple, austere beauty) is a key design element in Japanese art. Wabi can be described as understated elegance – design that has little in the way of flourish and that celebrates the unadorned.

The appeal of John Walsh’s Zen Bundle brooch comes from the artful selection and placement of the materials. Walsh has taken a simple object, a river stone, and set it in a silver bezel mounting, with a bundle of sticks made of silver and a simple pearl adornment, showcasing? Emphasizing? Highlighting? its natural beauty.

Sabi (“rustic patina”), another key Japanese design principle and usually linked to the concept of Wabi, , describes how objects can grow more beautiful with the passing of time. Metal that has tarnished or rusted, wood that has aged, and colors that have faded are all examples of Sabi.

Sabi is alive in contemporary jewelry. This handmade necklace designed by ChiGallery has a weathered look achieved by a special glazing technique.

Zen Style is timeless, beautiful, and speaks to our desire for tranquility and peace. You can see examples of this sensibility across the centuries in one form or another, and will continue to inspire modern designers and attract both fashionistas and the everyday jewelry-wearer for decades to come. Courtesy of Rustic-Zen Jewelry and Designs by Lauri Randall.

Zen Style is timeless, beautiful, and speaks to our desire for tranquility and peace. You can see examples of this sensibility across the centuries in one form or another, and will continue to inspire modern designers and attract both fashionistas and the everyday jewelry-wearer for decades to come.

Looking to carry a piece of serenity around with you? Zen Style may be just the thing for you.

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It began in gritty rock clubs in London and ended up on fashion runways in New York – that’s the long, strange trip taken by punk rock-inspired jewelry.

Earlier this year, punk jewelry came into the spotlight with the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibit Punk: Chaos to Couture, which examined “punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today.”

The exhibit’s opening gala attracted A-listers like Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Tommy Hilfiger, while Chanel, Burberry, and Dolce & Gabbana contributed outlandish fashions. No fashion statement would be complete without jewelry, and punk-inspired accessories rocked the red carpet with dark metals and black diamonds, spike studs and ear cuffs.

“Punk was born in a rebellious era, when creative and resourceful individuals used ordinary objects to make a statement. Now it’s resurfaced in couture closets and jewelry boxes, dressed up in gold and diamonds – but still with an edgy look,” says GIA Exhibit Developer and Graduate Jeweler & Graduate Gemologist McKenzie Santimer.

Although these unorthodox designs may not appeal to traditional jewelry connoisseurs they’re certainly fun to admire. Check out how some celebrities chose to show off their punkier side at the Costume Institute Gala and opening of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibition.

Jessica Alba wearing 18k white gold, black rhodium, and diamond serpent earrings from Jack Vartanian’s Glam Leopard Collection.

These 18k white gold, black rhodium, and diamond serpent earrings snaked up the ears of Jessica Alba for her red carpet appearance. From Jack Vartanian’s Glam Leopard Collection.

Lauren Santo Domingo wearing blacked white gold and diamond rings by Eva Fehren.

Lauren Santo Domingo, co-Founder of Moda Operandi, contributing editor to Vogue, and co-chair of the exhibition, wore these blacked white gold and diamond rings by Eva Fehren. The criss-cross design is reminiscent of the ripped, torn garments of the punk rock style

Diane Kruger wearing palladium and black and white diamond ear cuffs by Jacob & Co.

These palladium and black and white diamond ear cuffs were the perfect complement to Diane Kruger’s feminine yet edgy look. Jacob & Co. custom-made these clip-on earrings for Kruger.

January Jones wearing 18k yellow gold, opal and diamond pave cone earrings, designed by Genevieve Jones.

One of the most iconic looks of the punk rock fashion trend is the stud, and Mad Men’s January Jones wore her own take on this look with these 18k yellow gold, opal and diamond pave cone earrings, designed by Genevieve Jones.

Do any of these punk-inspired pieces inspire you? While perhaps not part of your everyday wear, do you have any “punkier” jewelry favorites you turn to for a fun night out?

Main image shows Jack Vartanian Glam Leopard Spinel Earrings

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Robert Ackermann, Jewelry Manufacturing Arts instructor:
Blue is going to be hot color in 2014. Consumers will want either de-saturated aquamarines or saturated blue sapphires. The reason: Pantone has named Dazzling Blue (Pantone 18-3949) as a color for spring 2014, and jewelry designers will use similarly colored gemstones. Also, a sluggish economy will continue to polarize the market, sending the middle class looking for more affordable pieces. Manufacturers will meet the demand by using more alternative materials like ceramics.

The Vagabonde Bleue Ring. Copyright Fabergé Ltd.

Doug Glener, writer:
If the movie, Princess Grace of Monaco, is successful at the box office, expect jewelry connoisseurs to wear pieces featured in the film, like the iconic Hen pin.  I’m also seeing the beginnings of a new unisex style – a cross between Steam Punk and post-industrial. Call it Structural Chic.

Kirkawa Live! ring. Photo courtesy of Krikawa.

Kristin Mahan, project manager, PR & communications:
Vintage engagement rings are going to win the hearts of brides-to-be. Several glossy women’s magazines are predicting this, too. Another trend at the altar: Bridesmaids are wearing dresses that complement each other instead of the same one, and this is going to happen with jewelry. Look for bridesmaids to wear jewelry that doesn’t clash, but has similar styles.

Courtesy Leigh Jay Nacht

Mike Magee, Jewelry Manufacturing Arts instructor:
The falling price of 3D printers is going to introduce jewelry making to a new group of hobbyists. In fact, you don’t even have to wait for prices to fall. Shapeways, a company that offers free 3D software, will print your creations. And you can then sell them on its website.

McKenzie Santimer, exhibit developer:
Long chains are going to be in, along with jewelry made accents of unusual materials like plastic and rubber. Jewelry designers will be inspired by paintings by the great masters, and will make them part of their designs.

Russell Shor, senior industry analyst:
Caution will continue to rule the diamond industry. Demand probably will be decent worldwide, but concerns over rough prices, financing and ever-more sophisticated synthetics will dampen the mood of manufacturers and wholesalers. This will drive demand for grading reports for smaller-size stones

The U.S. will probably lead industry growth because India’s and China’s economies remain uncertain. This makes predicting global demand for diamonds and gemstones difficult. The wealthiest, however, will continue to find that rare objects provide a better return than financial markets, so demand for colored diamonds will remain strong.

Peggy Tsiamis, visual resources researcher:
Princess Grace loved roses, and the upcoming movie about her will make the flower even more fashionable. A number of luxury brands like Dior and Montblanc already have been featuring them in their lines. This motif will trickle down to mass-market jewelry. Ear cuffs also look to be getting a hold.

Piaget Rose ring in 18-ct rose gold set with 2 brilliant-cut diamonds and a carved pink opal. Image courtesy of Piaget.

Rose Toser, senior research librarian:
Feathers and feathered-inspired jewelry will be popular. Harry Winston has the Premier Feathers watch line, which has feathers as its faces.

“Dream Feather”, white gold feather ring with white diamonds and blue sapphires with a green tsavorite. Courtesy Crow’s Nest Jewels.

Check back in a year to see how we did!

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Lace is in. Big fashion houses are filling the pages of women’s magazines with haute couture lace clothing – dresses…shirts…scarves, and jewelry designers are no exception.

The handcrafted look is also popular, and it’s stoking demand for products with an antique appearance. These trends have trickled down to jewelry, and you’ll find beautiful pieces with lace-like qualities.  

Technological advances, ironically, are also behind the antique look. Groundbreaking laser technology is allowing designers to make jewelry of unmatched complexity. It’s also enabling them to create the illusion of more jewelry with less material – something increasingly important as the price of precious metals rise.

Limelight Couture Précieuse necklace. 18K white gold, set with diamonds. Image courtesy of Piaget.

This one-of-a-kind Limelight Couture Précieuse necklace by Piaget is the epitome of femininity: soft, flowing, and decorated with flowers and honeycomb shapes.  A modern take on Edwardian classic, it’s a luxurious piece for the true jewelry connoisseur.

Earrings by Amrapali.

These earrings by Amrapali show a wonderful use of positive and negative space. The lacey designs, in fact, come to life because of the negative space.

Courtesy of Neil Lane Jewelry

Making platinum look like ribbons shows the spectacular craftsmanship of Edwardian Era jewelers (platinum is a difficult metal with which to work). This Tiffany corsage (circa 1905) is fluid in appearance and has an impressively delicate quality.

“Blue Sapphire Tattoo Ring” by Jason Dow.

This “Blue Sapphire Tattoo Ring” by GIA alum and 2013 Palladium Alliance International Design Contest Finalist Jason Dow finds inspiration in the Henna tattoos worn by Indian brides. Dow says about his Tattoo line, “Like a second skin, the lace-like designs elegantly cover your fingers and wrists.”

Main image 18k Rose Gold Lace Earrings. Image Courtesy of Mary Esses.

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A timeless favorite, butterfly jewelry is often breathtakingly beautiful – and highly symbolic.

Consider how the humble caterpillar wraps itself in a cocoon. After about ten days it emerges as a butterfly, the once-earthbound dweller now free to flit from leaf to leaf. This spectacular metamorphosis speaks to our own potential for growth and transformation.

It comes as no surprise, then, that the butterfly has charmed jewelry designers for centuries. We now invite you to soar across the decades and gaze at some bejeweled beauties.

* * *

Buzz Gray and Bernardine Johnston, the creators of this complex brooch, are famous for selecting and cutting unusual gemstones mined from remote locales. Their masterful handiwork and gemstone selection makes this butterfly take flight.

The vivid orange spessartine that is the body stands in sharp contrast to its delicate enamel wings, giving it a luminous glow. Black accents on the wings fall in symmetrical patterns, which are exceptionally difficult to create. These are some of the little details that make this a masterpiece.

Orange spessartine garnets brighten this brooch, along with colorless diamonds and green tsavorite garnets. Courtesy of Buzz Gray and Bernardine Johnston.

Diamond cutting methods were rudimentary when this antique piece (circa 1850) was made, but notice how the diamonds in the wings are graduated in size, starting as small flecks at the base and growing to larger rose-cut ones at the tips. This accomplishment would have been quite a challenge back then, and shows the craftsmanship of the designer.

Another nice embellishment is the scalloped edges of the wings, which give the butterfly a lifelike appearance. The brooch was probably worn with pearls or ribbons, or as a hairpiece.

Courtesy of the Neil Lane Collection.

A beautifully cut peridot and a garnet comprise the body of this luminous butterfly. The asymmetrical patterns in the wings are reminiscent of Art Nouveau jewelry; the use of negative space in the wings evokes veins.

One novel quality about this piece is that the wings are on springs, so they move with the wearer – an impressive and difficult design feat. This makes the butterfly more than a static creation, but something that flutters to life when touched by motion.

Body is a 12.24 carat peridot. Wings are peridot and diamonds. Eyes sparkle with spessartine garnets. Courtesy of Buzz Gray and Bernardine Johnston.

This exquisite butterfly is particularly lifelike. Two rose-cut diamonds at the tip of the wings imitate the camouflage patterns of real butterflies.

Brilliant magenta and cobalt-blue garnets that are the wings make for spectacular contrasts, and reveal exceptional micro-pavé work. The blackened gold antenna is a soothing counterpoint to the crash of colors.

Butterfly brooch in 18K blackened gold with articulated wings and accented with rose cut diamonds, round diamonds, pink and blue sapphires and tsavorite garnets. Gift of Dr. Gary R. and Barbara E. Hansen.

These butterfly designs are a testament to jewelry inspiration and innovation. Tell us which looks make your hearts go aflutter!

*Main image of pearl butterfly courtesy of Paula Crevoshay.

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Everywhere you look, you’re likely to see lots of leather: leather bracelets, leather belts, and a wide array of leather jewelry.

PUNK: Chaos to Couture, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibit on punk style, whipped up interest in leather. The Green movement (some people view leather as a natural product), urban fashionistas wanting to look hip, and the rising prices of gold and platinum have also spiked interest.

Now jewelry designers are taking the stuff of cowboy boots and saddles and turning it into luxury stunners.

“Leather is made everywhere, so leather jewelry naturally has a universal appeal. It also wears well over time, and that makes it even more attractive,” said Terri Ottaway, GIA’s curator of collections.

Now that we’ve rounded up the reasons for leather’s resurgence, here are some pieces for the rugged at heart.

Black Leather and Diamond Sabre Cuff with 18ct white gold and diamond sabre tusk. Courtesy of Shaun Leane.

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