Wondering where to start in creating your jewelry wardrobe? GIA put together this list of 11 Peices of Jewelry Every Women Should Own. Jewelry essentials to ensure that you have the perfect accessory for any event. Click on the image below to see a larger view. Bookmark and share!

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We typically think of insects as pesky critters that make us squirm. Caterpillars, flies, and moths are not what many would consider the winners of Mother Nature’s beauty pageant.

But in the hands of imaginative jewelry designers, these creepy crawlers become majestic winged creatures dressed up in diamonds, rubies, pearls, and other spectacular gemstones. And just as a caterpillar turns into a butterfly, master jewelers take raw elements and transform them into wearable works of art.

Victorian (circa 1865) Egyptian revival scarab watch. Courtesy of Mona Nesseth and Michelle Laurenti

This Victorian (circa 1865) Egyptian revival scarab watch is crowned with a pharaoh’s head of carved carnelian and a headdress of green and blue enameled gold. It supports a pendant of an enameled scarab with ruby eyes and rubies and diamonds set in the wings. Press a button at the base and the wings open to reveal a small watch set in engraved gold. The underside of the scarab is also realistically engraved – the finishing touches of an exceptionally complex piece.

caterpillar made of pearls with ruby prolegs and diamond eyes. Gift of Avi Raz of and Pearls, Inc. (c) GIA & Tino Hammid

Creating a caterpillar out of pearls is a leap of creative genius. The body is one large freshwater pearl formed when four pearls grew together in an oyster. The caterpillar’s head is a medium-dark gray keshi pearl set with two full cut round brilliant diamonds for the eyes and nine bezel-set cabochon rubies for the prolegs. The leaf below the caterpillar is another freshwater cultured pearl; the gold leaf on the right has 27 round cut dark-green sapphires. This caterpillar is so beautiful that it doesn’t even need to turn into a butterfly.

‘Zen’ cicada brooch. Courtesy of Wallace Chan. Photo copyright Wallace Chan.

Wallace Chan’s one-of-a-kind ‘Zen’ cicada brooch is startlingly lifelike. Notice the hairs on the legs ; the veins on the hand-carved mother of pearl wings; the beautiful black opal head. Other painstaking touches by Chan include the ruby eyes and the diamond the cicada holds with its legs . The cicada has long been celebrated as the symbol of Zen in Chinese poetry. This cicada design, iconic to Wallace Chan, was inspired by a calligraphy artist from the Tang dynasty, who wrote a poem about the winged creature.

“Moth Enhancer” with Brazilian crystal opal body. Courtesy of Wallace Goldsmithing.

An Art Deco moth? Sounds strange, but it perfectly describes this design from Wallace Goldsmithing’s Opal Natural Wonders Collection. Layered yellow and white gold gives the “Moth Enhancer” an architectural feel. The angular lines of the wings make it look as if it were getting ready to take flight. The dazzling 25-carat Brazilian crystal opal body makes it look a bit surreal.

Tony Duquette’s ‘Fantastic Cicada’. Courtesy of the Anthony & Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts.

Hollywood set designer Tony Duquette brought an unmistakable theatrical flair to his “Fantastic Cicada.” The malachite body is dramatic. The unique use of enamel paint on the legs and dangling appendages showcase Duquette’s sensibility as a costume designer. Its sharp points and rough edges make it feel like this insect belongs in Little Shop of Horrors.

Praying mantis made from silver. Gift of Robert F. Officer.

This praying mantis is an especially unusual piece. The sculpture is a solid silver cast of a real praying mantis (a dead one was used to make the mold), making it an exact replica. The bottom wings showcase the ancient and difficult Japanese mokume gane technique , which involves welding thin layers of different metals together without solder and flux . The resulting wood grain appearance is the tell-tale sign of mokume gane. The upper wings were the artist’s inspiration. The finished piece looks like it could be out hunting for metallic prey.

Tony Duquette’s ‘Phoenix Spider’. Courtesy of the Anthony & Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts.

Although not technically an insect, we couldn’t resist adding this spectacular spider to the mix. .” This 1970s brooch features an ingenious use of enamel, accentuating the malachite body and pearled head and hanging pearl sack. This is no everyday arachnid: she is the queen of her realm, a goddess ready to feast or give birth to a new brood.

The fashion heroes of the insect world used to be the showy butterflies, ladybugs or dragonflies. What do you think about this latest cast of creatures? Would they have a place in your jewelry wardrobe?

The post Incredible Insects appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Sleek. Simple. Sophisticated.

It’s Zen Style – jewelry that has clean lines and uncomplicated shapes. There’s little in the way of ornamentation and embellishment. Its beauty comes from artful construction and the pairing of contrasting shapes and colors.

Erik Stewart’s Zen ring captures the spirit of the style. It has a simple, austere beauty that speaks of peace.

Many people are attracted to this style of jewelry because it’s a visual antidote to the fast pace of modern life – a wearable piece of peace. And that’s something that crosses international boundaries. Whether you’re in New York, Hong Kong, Buenos Aries, Beijing, Mumbai or Rome, the hustle and bustle of modern life creates a natural draw to visual serenity.

This “Omega Round” ring, features a round brilliant diamond, tension set in platinum, by Steven Kretchmer is an example of Zen design. Simple shapes are used to make something beautiful…organic…fluid. Courtesy of Steven Kretchmer.

Zen Style owes its inspiration to traditional Japanese art. If you really want to appreciate this style of design, you have to understand where it first flowered.

Wabi (simple, austere beauty) is a key design element in Japanese art. Wabi can be described as understated elegance – design that has little in the way of flourish and that celebrates the unadorned.

The appeal of John Walsh’s Zen Bundle brooch comes from the artful selection and placement of the materials. Walsh has taken a simple object, a river stone, and set it in a silver bezel mounting, with a bundle of sticks made of silver and a simple pearl adornment, showcasing? Emphasizing? Highlighting? its natural beauty.

Sabi (“rustic patina”), another key Japanese design principle and usually linked to the concept of Wabi, , describes how objects can grow more beautiful with the passing of time. Metal that has tarnished or rusted, wood that has aged, and colors that have faded are all examples of Sabi.

Sabi is alive in contemporary jewelry. This handmade necklace designed by ChiGallery has a weathered look achieved by a special glazing technique.

Zen Style is timeless, beautiful, and speaks to our desire for tranquility and peace. You can see examples of this sensibility across the centuries in one form or another, and will continue to inspire modern designers and attract both fashionistas and the everyday jewelry-wearer for decades to come. Courtesy of Rustic-Zen Jewelry and Designs by Lauri Randall.

Zen Style is timeless, beautiful, and speaks to our desire for tranquility and peace. You can see examples of this sensibility across the centuries in one form or another, and will continue to inspire modern designers and attract both fashionistas and the everyday jewelry-wearer for decades to come.

Looking to carry a piece of serenity around with you? Zen Style may be just the thing for you.

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Lace is in. Big fashion houses are filling the pages of women’s magazines with haute couture lace clothing – dresses…shirts…scarves, and jewelry designers are no exception.

The handcrafted look is also popular, and it’s stoking demand for products with an antique appearance. These trends have trickled down to jewelry, and you’ll find beautiful pieces with lace-like qualities.  

Technological advances, ironically, are also behind the antique look. Groundbreaking laser technology is allowing designers to make jewelry of unmatched complexity. It’s also enabling them to create the illusion of more jewelry with less material – something increasingly important as the price of precious metals rise.

Limelight Couture Précieuse necklace. 18K white gold, set with diamonds. Image courtesy of Piaget.

This one-of-a-kind Limelight Couture Précieuse necklace by Piaget is the epitome of femininity: soft, flowing, and decorated with flowers and honeycomb shapes.  A modern take on Edwardian classic, it’s a luxurious piece for the true jewelry connoisseur.

Earrings by Amrapali.

These earrings by Amrapali show a wonderful use of positive and negative space. The lacey designs, in fact, come to life because of the negative space.

Courtesy of Neil Lane Jewelry

Making platinum look like ribbons shows the spectacular craftsmanship of Edwardian Era jewelers (platinum is a difficult metal with which to work). This Tiffany corsage (circa 1905) is fluid in appearance and has an impressively delicate quality.

“Blue Sapphire Tattoo Ring” by Jason Dow.

This “Blue Sapphire Tattoo Ring” by GIA alum and 2013 Palladium Alliance International Design Contest Finalist Jason Dow finds inspiration in the Henna tattoos worn by Indian brides. Dow says about his Tattoo line, “Like a second skin, the lace-like designs elegantly cover your fingers and wrists.”

Main image 18k Rose Gold Lace Earrings. Image Courtesy of Mary Esses.

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A timeless favorite, butterfly jewelry is often breathtakingly beautiful – and highly symbolic.

Consider how the humble caterpillar wraps itself in a cocoon. After about ten days it emerges as a butterfly, the once-earthbound dweller now free to flit from leaf to leaf. This spectacular metamorphosis speaks to our own potential for growth and transformation.

It comes as no surprise, then, that the butterfly has charmed jewelry designers for centuries. We now invite you to soar across the decades and gaze at some bejeweled beauties.

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Buzz Gray and Bernardine Johnston, the creators of this complex brooch, are famous for selecting and cutting unusual gemstones mined from remote locales. Their masterful handiwork and gemstone selection makes this butterfly take flight.

The vivid orange spessartine that is the body stands in sharp contrast to its delicate enamel wings, giving it a luminous glow. Black accents on the wings fall in symmetrical patterns, which are exceptionally difficult to create. These are some of the little details that make this a masterpiece.

Orange spessartine garnets brighten this brooch, along with colorless diamonds and green tsavorite garnets. Courtesy of Buzz Gray and Bernardine Johnston.

Diamond cutting methods were rudimentary when this antique piece (circa 1850) was made, but notice how the diamonds in the wings are graduated in size, starting as small flecks at the base and growing to larger rose-cut ones at the tips. This accomplishment would have been quite a challenge back then, and shows the craftsmanship of the designer.

Another nice embellishment is the scalloped edges of the wings, which give the butterfly a lifelike appearance. The brooch was probably worn with pearls or ribbons, or as a hairpiece.

Courtesy of the Neil Lane Collection.

A beautifully cut peridot and a garnet comprise the body of this luminous butterfly. The asymmetrical patterns in the wings are reminiscent of Art Nouveau jewelry; the use of negative space in the wings evokes veins.

One novel quality about this piece is that the wings are on springs, so they move with the wearer – an impressive and difficult design feat. This makes the butterfly more than a static creation, but something that flutters to life when touched by motion.

Body is a 12.24 carat peridot. Wings are peridot and diamonds. Eyes sparkle with spessartine garnets. Courtesy of Buzz Gray and Bernardine Johnston.

This exquisite butterfly is particularly lifelike. Two rose-cut diamonds at the tip of the wings imitate the camouflage patterns of real butterflies.

Brilliant magenta and cobalt-blue garnets that are the wings make for spectacular contrasts, and reveal exceptional micro-pavé work. The blackened gold antenna is a soothing counterpoint to the crash of colors.

Butterfly brooch in 18K blackened gold with articulated wings and accented with rose cut diamonds, round diamonds, pink and blue sapphires and tsavorite garnets. Gift of Dr. Gary R. and Barbara E. Hansen.

These butterfly designs are a testament to jewelry inspiration and innovation. Tell us which looks make your hearts go aflutter!

*Main image of pearl butterfly courtesy of Paula Crevoshay.

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The ever-changing nature of jewelry trends are driven by a number of factors. Right now, rose gold is having its moment in the sun after precious white metals were the color of choice for the past few years. Let’s take a look at why that might be.

One significant influence for jewelry designers is overall fashion and design trends. Right now, pastel colors are in vogue, seen everywhere from fashion to home decor, and rose gold is an ideal backdrop for pastel-colored gemstones like mint green garnets, pink kunzite, rose quartz, and baby-blue aquamarines.

Additionally, what’s happening in one place can cause a ripple effect around the world. India is one of the larger gold markets, and rose gold is very popular. As a major gold manufacturer, India produces an abundant supply of rose gold for jewelry manufacturers around the globe.

Here’s some fun trivia about rose gold that you can share at your next cocktail party:

• There is no such thing as naturally occurring rose gold. It’s made by adding copper to molten gold. Jewelry houses, much like medieval alchemists, experiment in search of the perfect combination to make the rosy blush. Their special blends become closely guarded trade secrets.
• An example of how fashion goes in cycles, rose gold was extremely popular during the Victorian era (1830s to 1901); pink was considered the color of romance. Platinum and silver – icy white metals – were in demand in the following Edwardian Era (1901 – 1915), and continued to be popular throughout the Art Deco period (1920 – 1935).
• Rose gold experienced a resurgence in popularity during the Retro period (roughly 1935 – 1950). This was helped in part by the U.S. government declaring platinum a “wartime metal” and in turn, banning the metal from civilian use.

After years of cool, white metals dominating jewelry designs, and the rising availability of alternative white metals such as palladium and titanium, it makes sense that consumers are drawn to rose gold. Warm, beautiful, distinct – this metal du jour is adding more color options to the jewelry landscape.

Now that we’ve got you blushing over rose gold, here are some stunning pieces worth sharing.

18k rose gold cable chain with pave diamonds on six open wave strands with ten alternating open wave polish gold on top of a round White Mother of Pearl. Image courtesy of Frederic Sage.

Feathery clouds swirl across a mid-day sun, or so this Fire Pendant from Frederic Sage seems to us. The diamonds add flecks of light, while the rose gold adds warmth and luminescence.

Trabert & Hoeffier Mauboussin rose brooch. Center stone in brooch is a star ruby. Courtesy of GIA & Tino Hammid.

Big bows, flowers, and of course, rose gold, were favorites during the Retro period. The use of rose gold gives life to this piece.

Classic Stars 18kt rosé gold with 0.60 ct brilliants inside the dome. Image courtesy of Royal Asscher.

This ring looks like a snow globe, and the moving diamonds like falling flakes of snow. This gives the piece an ethereal quality, and the rose gold adds to the magic.

Pink sapphire and diamond 3-stone ring set in 18K rose gold. Image courtesy of Omi Prive.

This three-stone beauty of pink sapphire, diamonds, and rose gold might just be a perfect gift to give on Valentine’s Day.

Rose gold ring in the shape of a butterfly. Image courtesy of MIIRORI by JACOB’s Jewelry.

If Mother Nature made jewelry it would look like this MIIORI by JACOB’s Jewelry butterfly ring. It’s light, airy and utterly elegant. Notice too how rose gold softens the look.

The post Rose Gold Revival appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

While we all can’t make it to the America’s Cup in San Francisco this September, we can enjoy it vicariously. Souped-up sloops will be slicing through the bay at 50 miles an hour – a speed so spectacular that they’ll literally be flying out of the water.

Grandstands will be set up along the shoreline for spectators to “ooh” and “ah.” And the rich and beautiful are sure to be in attendance.

In celebration of the America’s Cup, here are some nautical-themed pieces that will make you feel like you’ve just been splashed by the ocean spray.

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One frequent request GIA receives is, “Can you recommend a reputable jeweler?” The jewelry-buying landscape offers so many options: buying online, through retail chains, neighborhood jewelry stores, and even independent sellers. Establishing a relationship with a jeweler can seem daunting and confusing. GIA is here to help. While it can’t recommend specific jewelers or businesses, it does offer tools and tips to help you navigate your way through choices.

Why doesn’t GIA endorse specific businesses? As a nonprofit, research and educational institute GIA operates outside the realm of everyday commerce. That means that GIA doesn’t price, sell or trade in diamonds or any other gems, nor is it affiliated with any retailers, industry groups, trade associations, or lobbyists. GIA’s mission is to protect the gem buying public, and it does so by remaining completely independent and unbiased.

However, GIA has services available to help you identify potential jewelers during your diamond or gem-buying process. The Retailer Lookup tool found on the GIA website, will direct you to jewelers in your area who have opted to list that they carry GIA-graded diamonds or employ GIA-trained staff..

You can also use GIA’s global online Alumni Directory, to verify a retailer’s GIA credentials. The directory is elective, so it doesn’t list every graduate, but it can provide another check point if you want to confirm that the jeweler you’re buying from is GIA-trained.

Finally, you can use the Report Check tool to confirm that the data of a GIA report matches the information archived in GIA’s global database. A GIA grading report provides a scientific and impartial assessment of the 4Cs of diamond quality, and discloses any known treatments used to alter the stone’s appearance. You can learn more about how GIA conducts diamond grading.

This is just one of the questions most frequently submitted to us, please let us know if you have any others! We’re here to help you through your diamond or gem purchase.

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Platinum is a metal favored by jewelers for its durability, malleability and significant weight. It doesn’t tarnish and maintains its natural white color, making it an excellent option for heirloom jewelry. And because it’s long lasting , platinum creates a secure setting for diamonds and gemstones, making it a top choice for engagement and wedding rings to last a lifetime.

However, platinum wasn’t always as readily available for jewelry as it is today. Ancient Egyptians used platinum in jewelry and sarcophagi, but then it disappeared into obscurity until the 1700s. In order to be shaped for casting, platinum needs to be heated to 3,872° F, a challenge that Medieval Europeans were unable to surmount.

Cartier pave round and channel set diamond earrings set in platinum.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, advances in technology enabled metal smiths to generate the heat necessary to work with platinum. In the 1780s, King Louis XVI of France declared platinum the “only metal fit for kings” after his jeweler, Marc Etienne Janety, fashioned several platinum pieces for him. Fast forward 100 years, and Peter Carl Fabergé used platinum to create his famous Easter eggs starting in 1884. But it wasn’t until the early 1900s, when Louis Cartier began using platinum to craft jewelry for royalty around the world, that it truly started to gain stature.

20.02 carat cushion cut pink sapphire set in platinum. Courtesy of Omi Prive.

Today, platinum is associated with style, elegance and timelessness. The metal has a multitude of attractive qualities that helps solidify its prestigious reputation. Many famous gems such as the Hope Diamond are set in platinum, and delicate jewelry designs are often crafted in platinum, which is a testament to its durability and ability to hold precious stones securely. Naturally hypoallergenic, platinum is also ideal for those with sensitive skin.

“Contempo I” ring constructed from platinum. The ring includes black jade, white diamonds and a faceted Tahitian black pearl. Gift of Mark Schneider.

What do you think platinum’s best qualities are? Tell us about the platinum jewelry pieces you own and why you love them!

Image of Crescent Moon bracelet is a gift of Michael Bondanza, Inc.

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With the current popularity of period pieces—fueled in part by films and shows like The Great Gatsby and Downton Abbey–there is a rising interest in vintage fashion and jewelry. The Edwardian period lasted from 1900 to 1915, when England was flush with power and wealth. For the landed gentry (land owners who could live entirely off of rental income), the Edwardian Era was a period of prosperity and privilege; however, class divisions were equally stark.

The Victoria Baths in Manchester had separate entrances for first-class males, second-class males, and females. The Titanic, the most luxurious and largest ocean liner of its time, further illustrated this divide with its First, Second, and Third Class cabins. The arts in Great Britain, including jewelry design, served a definite purpose during the Edwardian Era to reinforce the class system.

Unlike Art Nouveau jewelry, which in part was a backlash to the Industrial Revolution, Edwardian jewelry drew inspiration from King Edward VII and his admirers, who wanted todistinguish themselves visually from those belonging to lower social classes. As GIA instructor Robert Ackermann puts it: “Jewelry was a preferred way to show one’s rank in society. Only the upper classes could afford it, and they advertised their wealth and position by wearing exquisite works.”

In jewelry, garlands and triumphal laurel wreaths belonging to a conqueror’s crown were common design themes. These regal motifs represented the might of the British Empire and the importance of the wearer. Stately tiaras, pendants, necklaces, and chokers not only captured the style of the day but also carried symbolic weight. For example, it was rude for a lady to wear a taller tiara in the presence of a woman of higher rank. Here’s an example of a diamond, silver, gold, and tortoise shell tiara.

Diamonds, pearls, platinum and symmetrical design defined Edwardian jewelry. Diamonds were abundant due to the discovery of mines in South Africa during the 1880s, and England’s aristocracy quickly fell in love with the glittering gemstone. Symmetry in jewelry design evoked power, stability, and status. Pearls were often showcased in a piece of jewelry. Whether a pearl was dropped in a bed of diamonds or set in platinum, Edwardians considered this combination to be the height of sophistication and elegance, as seen in this pearl, diamond, and cat’s eye alexandrite cabochon pendant.

Although many of the customs and class divisions of the Edwardian Era belong to the distant past, the international success of Downtown Abbey proves that we continue to be captivated. To see just how much Edwardian Era jewelry continues to impact contemporary design, check out this video.

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