Our exclusive video takes you through the history of the 4Cs, and explains why they remain the universal standard for assessing your diamond. Watch it, and tell us what you think!

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The world eagerly awaits news of the arrival of the newest British Royal, due to be born any day. The royal couple’s child will officially be known as His or Her Royal Highness Prince or Princess of Cambridge, a title fitting for a child that will likely inherit the throne, and along with it, the right to wear the British Crown Jewels. GIA has highlighted a few of the spectacular jewels, which are mostly kept secured at the Tower of London. 

The Sovereign’s Sceptre features the 530.2 carat Cullinan I diamond, which can be removed and worn as a brooch. Photo courtesy of Alan Jobbins.

The Sovereign’s Sceptre, originally dating back to the 1661 coronation of King Charles II, was redesigned in 1910 to accommodate the 530.20 carat gem, the Great Star of Africa. This diamond was the largest of the 105 diamonds of nearly flawless quality cut from the famous 3,106.75 carat Cullinan diamond.  If the first child of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge turns out to be a girl, the diamond can be removed from the sceptre and worn as a brooch for royal events.

The most frequently worn royal crown, the Imperial State Crown, features the Black Prince’s Ruby, one of the U.K.’s oldest Crown Jewels (14th c.).  Despite the name, gemologists determined that the ‘Ruby’ is actually a red spinel, most likely from mines in Asia known for yielding exceptionally large spinel crystals. The gem known as St. Edward’s Sapphire adorns the cross at the top of the crown, the famous 317.40 carat Cullinan II diamond (also known as the Lesser Star of Africa) is set on the front, and the back band features the stunning 104 carat Stuart Sapphire (17th c.).

If the baby is a girl, she will have a number of important jewels to choose from for her own coronation, including The Coronation Necklace, worn by Queens Alexandra, Mary, Elizabeth and Her Majesty The Queen at their coronation ceremonies. When Queen Victoria lost many family jewels in 1857, Garrard, the official crown jeweler at the time, was commissioned to design new pieces using gems taken from swords and other “useless things.” The Coronation Necklace was worn frequently by Queen Victoria and features 26 stones– nine between 8.25 and 11.25 carats – which were taken from a Garter badge and sword hilt.

Are you anxiously awaiting news of the arrival of the royal baby?  With the current popularity of ‘push presents,’ a jewelry gift given to the mother after giving birth, what do you think is an appropriate push present for the Duchess of Cambridge after giving birth to the future King or Queen of England?

Learn more about some of the other most prized British Royal Jewels.

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When the 57th President of the U.S. was sworn in on January 21st, many looked to First Lady Michelle Obama to set the stage for American fashion trends in 2013. The First Lady did not disappoint when she appeared at the inaugural ball in geode shaped diamond earrings and bangles by American designer Kimberly MacDonald.

In honor of First Ladies from Martha Washington to Mrs. Obama, two GIA experts are taking a look at some of the most fascinating, trend-setting and significant jewelry that America’s First Ladies have donned through the ages. The first expert is Dona Dirlam, director of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. GIA’s library is a resource like no other, containing a growing collection of more than 38,000 books and over 100,000 photographic images and provides “ready reference” in the fields of gemology and jewelry. The second expert is Larry S. Larson, a GIA gemology instructor, with decades of jewelry retail experience in both sales and management. Here’s what they had to say about some of our most distinguished First Ladies and their inaugural jewels.

An American Original
A lifelong lover of jewelry, Martha Washington donned a citrine pin at America’s first-ever inauguration in 1789. Dona told us, “Citrine is relatively plentiful today and comes in a variety of sizes and shapes. The small, dainty flower-shaped pin that First Lady Washington wore was a sign of the more reserved Colonial times.

Mary Todd Lincoln pearls. (Courtesy of the Smithsonian)

From the Sea to the Shore
Recognizing that pearls were a wardrobe staple long before Jackie Kennedy, Mary Todd Lincoln wore a Tiffany seed-pearl necklace and matching bracelets to the first Lincoln inaugural ball. “Mrs. Lincoln may have been in the public eye during a transitional time, but her taste in jewelry was certainly classic,” said Larry. In keeping with the times, she later purchased jet jewelry, which is black, during her mourning period.

The First Lady of Fashion
The most iconic First Lady of Fashion, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, donned an emerald jewelry suite – which included a necklace, bracelet, and matching earrings – to her husband’s inaugural gala in 1961. “Jackie’s style has been imitated since she first stepped foot in the White House, and given that emerald is Pantone’s color for 2013, I wouldn’t be surprised to see pieces similar to this suite emerge this year,” said Larry.

4.25-carat Kahn Canary Diamond

The Arkansas Accessory
“Paying homage to her previous tenure as Arkansas’ First Lady, Hillary Rodham Clinton wore the 4.25-carat Kahn Canary Diamond to her husband’s Inaugural galas in 1993 and 1997 as a special, unique way to represent Arkansas’s diamond site,” said Dona. The diamond’s owner, Stan Kahn of Pine Bluff, Arkansas, loaned the diamond to Mrs. Clinton, and it was set in a ring designed by Henry Dunay.

Which of the First Lady’s jewels do you admire most? Do you prefer Michelle Obama’s unique shaped diamonds, or the emeralds donned by Jackie Kennedy?

The post Inaugural Gemstones appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The 300-year-old Spanish Inquisition Necklace in the collection of the Smithsonian National Natural History Museum has 15 emerald beads and more than 360 diamonds. © Chip Clark, Smithsonian Institution.

1947: Katharine Hepburn, Spanish Inquisition Necklace.
Katherine Hepburn wore the Spanish Inquisition Necklace, borrowed from famed jeweler Harry Winston, for the 1947 Academy Awards. Winston purchased the necklace, comprised of 374 diamonds mined in India and 15 Colombian emeralds, from the son of the Maharaja of Indore and named it the Inquisition Necklace because he believed it had once been owned by Spanish royalty.

“In the 16h century Spanish explorers in what is now Colombia plundered emeralds, which had been used in jewelry and for religious ceremonies for hundreds of years. It’s certainly a possibility that this particular piece was once owned by Spanish aristocracy,” said Dona Dirlam, director of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. The necklace is currently on display at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C.

1957: Elizabeth Taylor, The Mike Todd Diamond Tiara
Elizabeth Taylor, then queen of the silver screen, wore an antique (1880) tiara to the 1957 Academy Awards. A gift from her husband, theater and film producer Mike Todd, the tiara featured old Mine cut diamonds mounted in platinum and gold. “Antique cut diamonds can enhance the beauty of an elegant setting. The old Mine cut is generally a cushion shape, with the facet arrangement of the typical brilliant. The lower half facets are much shorter than modern cuts, and there is often a fairly large culet,” said Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert.

The tiara was auctioned by Christie’s in December 2011, and realized over $4.2 million. “When the jewels of a celebrity like Elizabeth Taylor come up for auction, the world clamors for a piece of their fame, with resulting prices that often far exceed their gem value. Miss Taylor’s diamond tiara was valued between $60,000 and  $80,000, but sold for much more because collectors around the world furiously competed for this galmorous part of cinematic history,” said Russell Shor, GIA’s senior industry analyst.

Elizabeth Taylor, The Mike Todd Diamond Tiara (C) Getty Images

1999: Whoopi Goldberg, Elizabethian Jewels.
Whoopi Goldberg wore a record-breaking $41 million worth of Elizabethan-style jewels for her opening skit at the 1999 Oscars, the most value ever worn by one person. Goldberg crowned herself  “the African Queen” as a nod to the two actresses nominated for their portrayal of Queen Elizabeth I:  Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth and Judi Dench in Shakespeare in Love.

“During Queen Elizabeth’s reign (1558-1603), women often wore multiple necklaces, several rings and the carcanet – a wide collar-like necklace or headband. Valuable metals and gems were often reserved for the upper class and nobility… Whoopi’s jewelry during the 1999 Academy Awards would certainly have received a nod from Elizabeth herself,” said Dona Dirlam, director of GIA’s gemological library and information center.

Whoopi Goldberg, Elizabethian Jewels. (c) Getty Images

Are you looking forward to seeing more spectacular jewelry at this year’s Oscars?  Sound off in the comments!

The post Oscar History: A Look at Noteworthy Jewelry appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Though diamonds and other gemstones have been collected and coveted for many centuries, it has taken almost as long for diamond cutters and jewelers to learn how to reveal a gemstone’s inner beauty.

As early as the 1300s, European stone cutters were changing crystals by polishing their faces so that no natural irregularities of the original crystal remained. While this type of polishing and cutting did allow light to reflect off the outer surface, the fire and brilliance remained hidden inside. Small changes introduced over the next few centuries made diamonds more interesting, but still hid the potential of diamonds to return light as we know it today.

As times and fashions changed, sparkly fashion accessories became all the rage, especially in 17th century Europe. Fashionable women actually preferred imitation stones as they sparkled more than the diamonds of the times; glass with silver paint on the back became a preference to actual diamonds or other gems.

As a result of the changing times, jewelers and gem cutters needed to find better ways to cut diamonds to keep up with the fashion trends. Diamond cutters in Europe, used different angles and a variety of facet arrangements to create the early versions of the brilliant cut.

However, for the next few hundred years, there was still no agreed-upon standard for evaluating the beauty of a diamond by its cut. Buyers had to trust the word of their jeweler or diamond cutter, whose knowledge of diamond quality and cutting standards may or may not have come from a reputable source. As a result, diamonds were regularly sold without standards to accurately evaluate them.

The lack of standards was apparent in early 20th century advertising which would often misrepresent the qualities of diamonds being sold. The Jeweler’s Circular-Weekly, a reputable trade publication, ran a series of articles on what quality factors a diamond should have. Articles such as these helped raise trade awareness and eventually public awareness that diamonds and diamond quality could be misrepresented to the public. Conferences were organized with well-known gemologists to address these issues. Yet, with no clear standard in the diamond industry, and no formal schools for gemological education, change and awareness came slowly

Recognizing the need for diamond and gemstone standards, the Gemological Institute of America was created in 1931. The creation of GIA would completely change the way both jewelers and the gem-buying public would think and learn about diamonds and other gemstones.

Coming up:
The History of GIA and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality – Part 2
Robert Shipley Becomes a Gem Expert

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Few things catch the eye like ruby. This July birthstone has a color which can be described as a deep, pure, vivid red. Ruby, a variety of the mineral corundum (which also includes sapphires), is as historically captivating as it is beautiful. In the ancient language of Sanskrit, ruby is called ratnaraj or “king of precious stones” for its rarity, hardness (second only to diamond), beauty, and for its seemingly mystical powers. This gem was worn by men and women of past centuries who hoped to bring themselves success in life, love, wealth, health, and war.  Rubies were believed to predict misfortune or danger.

So, is Mom’s birthday in July? Maybe your girlfriend’s ring finger is looking lonely? Or is it high time you bought yourself a decadent present? Rubies are the answer. Beautiful in earrings, sparkling in rings, and especially striking in pendants, rubies ornament all types of jewelry. For the highest quality ruby, be sure to look for these qualities:

• Shape:  mixed-cut ovals and cushions are common cuts and there’s a reason for it – these multifaceted cuts will bring out the vibrancy of your ruby’s red.

• Color: Speaking of red, the rarest rubies boast a pure, vivid red hue, although some rubies contain a dash of pink, orange, or purple.

• Gemstone Variety:  This may seem like an obvious attribute to pay attention to, but making sure you are looking at a ruby as opposed to a pink sapphire is very important. Stones a little pinkish, purplish or orangy red are also considered rubies, but many gem and jewelry professionals make careful distinctions between a ruby and a pink, purple or orange sapphire.

• Treatments: The majority of all rubies are heated at the mine. They may also be treated with a lead glass-like filling. All treatments should be disclosed. If buying a ruby you might consider purchasing a ruby with a GIA Ruby Report, which will confirm that your stone is, in fact, a ruby, identify any known treatments, and even indicate its geographic origin.

The summer months are upon us, and the rubies are waiting for their time to shine.

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A diamond solitaire refers to any piece of jewelry with a single diamond. Diamond solitaires can be a ring, necklace, earring or even men’s jewelry. They have come to mark some of the most significant occasions in one’s life, like sweet-sixteen, anniversaries, and the most notable, an engagement proposal.

A diamond engagement ring is a known symbol of lasting love and fidelity. When a man kneels and places the diamond ring onto his fiancée’s finger, it is a moment to be remembered forever. A woman may look at her engagement ring thousands of times over the course of her lifetime; for this reason, the ring ought to be expertly matched to the bride.

Many engagement ring buyers choose a solitaire setting for its classic elegance and its ability to showcase the beauty of the stone. In fact, in a recent survey of over 7,000 engaged women, TheKnot, found that 25% had received solitaires. Within the solitaire category, there are many settings to consider when purchasing that perfect engagement ring.

Since the diamond will be the centerpiece of the ring, most people begin the selection process with the shape of the diamond. The most popular stone shape for a solitaire ring is the round brilliant (53% of all engagement rings, according to TheKnot); this creative, multifaceted style is cut to sparkle and show off the depth of the stone. This cut is arguably the most brilliant of all solitaire choices because it provides the maximum amount of light return through the top of the diamond. Other popular styles for solitaire diamond rings are cushion, princess, radiant, and pear.

Once the shape of the diamond is selected, buyers consider the best setting style for the stone. Although the first demand is practical–that it will be secure enough to hold the stone safely in place–there are many aesthetic concerns as well. For solitaire rings, popular setting styles include prong, cathedral, bezel and tension. A prong setting is minimalist in nature, holding the stone like a claw from beneath. The prongs are small wires that bind the stone, welded to the band to ensure its safety. Yet they suspend the stone high enough off of the band to show its size and detail, offering maximum sparkle. The Tiffany 6-prong setting, introduced over 125 years ago, serves as the iconic image of an engagement ring. This look served to popularize the giving of diamond solitaire rings for engagements, and it remains a popular, and often imitated, style.

Cathedral setting*

A cathedral setting allows the diamond to be visible, with slopes on either side to protect the stone. The cathedral setting gets its name from its aesthetic similarities to an old cathedral—its sweeping nature is reminiscent of the vaulted ceilings and pleasing arches of these places of prayer.

Bezel Setting"

A bezel setting is sleek and modern—the metal of the band is used to completely surround the diamond, following exactly the stone’s shape. This is an ideal choice for an active lifestyle.

Tension setting*

A tension setting allows the ring to act as a spring, holding the diamond in place. This setting type is known for its unique appearance, allowing the diamond to appear to be floating. Further, there is no metal underneath the diamond, which means the stone can be cleaned easily. Diamonds are natural grease magnets, so when dirty, they appear duller in appearance.

No matter what stone shape and setting type are selected, a diamond solitaire ring is sure to please any bride-to-be, eliciting a smile from her lips each one of the million-plus times she glances at her ring in years to come.

*Photos courtesy of Platinum Guild International

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According to Macrobius, a 5th century Roman writer, the betrothal ring was worn on the fourth finger of the left hand. It was believed that from that finger a special vein ran directly to the heart. To this day, the centuries-old custom of wearing an engagement ring in this way has endured.

Engagement rings weren’t always about diamonds. Keep that in mind as you look for the perfect one. During the Middle Ages, sapphires and rubies initially adorned the engagement ring, while diamonds were incorporated in the 15th century. The earliest written record of the use of a diamond in an engagement ring was in 1477 by a Dr. Moroltinger, who was advising the future Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian to have a ring set with a diamond for his betrothal to Mary of Burgundy. Resisting fire and steel, diamonds stood for the fortitude of a lifelong partnership.

Early cutting techniques caused gems to look dull and even black. Compensating for these lackluster stones, goldsmiths designed elaborate settings, composed of such romantic notions as rosettes and fleur-de-lis, symbolizing the bride’s purity.

More ephemeral than the diamond ring, the rush ring was hastily made from leaves or grass and lasted in many cases as long as the short-lived engagement. A more enduring and popular 16th century ring, the fede (Italian for faith) betrothal ring signified a marriage’s immutability in its central image of two clasped hands.

With the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in the 18th century, diamond jewelry became more readily available, and diamond cluster engagements rings were in vogue. A common cluster design consisted of small rose-cut diamonds arranged around a larger center stone.

Widespread wealth, initiated by the 19th century’s Industrial Revolution and the rich supply of newly discovered African diamond mines, made diamonds available to a greater public. Diamond experts at GIA also note that this period was marked by revolutionary developments in cutting and polishing, resulting in diamonds revealing a brilliance greater than any other gem. The diamond now could stand alone, and so the solitaire engagement ring, as you can see below, became fashionable.

The simple elegance of the classic Tiffany mounting, introduced in 1886 by Charles L. Tiffany, offered an ideal complement to the beauty of the diamond. With the diamond set high in an open, six-prong mounting, the design permitted greater amounts of light to enter the gem, allowing it to exhibit maximum brilliance. Given all the choices that are available to couples today, not only can they choose an engagement ring that represents a centuries-old symbol of love and tradition, but more importantly, a ring that is a personal expression of themselves.

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Oh…those beautiful, beautiful stones! For a child, it was like an endless Crayola® crayon box of treasures. Truly, I thought every kid got to play with uncut rubies, emeralds and tourmalines.

My mother shared the bounty of her father’s love and knowledge with us—saving the delicate drawings that he made before faceting certain gems, and showing them to us as my sister showed a skill for art; gathering together fluorescent stones he had mined himself, and buying a black light so we could do  totally cool show-and-tells at school.

The gardens around the house were decorated with larger pieces from the collection: rose quartz, amethysts and emeralds in substrate, and the occasional chunks pyrite for glitz. I remember a fascination with the geodes that were displayed on hutches and open cabinets around the house. How had he known something so crystalline and beautiful would be inside something so hard and dull?

Getting to write about GIA on this blog is the amazing completion of a circle for me that started with Grandpa Victor. He was no snob from what I could tell—he seemed to collect any rock he found interesting or beautiful. Sure, there were many semi-precious gems in his collection. But there were the simple pebbles he picked up to practice his polishing technique. The agate that became gorgeous cabochons for pendants my mom still wears. And the old cigar boxes filled with meticulously cut “pillows” for the gems he did facet. While I am not a gem expert, I will be able to share with you all that GIA has to offer…while reveling in the DNA that made me a gem-lover, too. I hope you’ll enjoy the journey.

The post The Circle of Life–Gems and Jewels Style appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.