Ready for a stunning surprise? Put a gemstone under a high-powered microscope, and you’ll see a world of breathtaking beauty.

GIA researchers explore this hidden universe by photographing gemstones at magnifications up to 1,000 times larger than what the unaided eye can see. Called photomicrography, this technique is used to capture the internal gemological characteristics that are revealed under the microscope. These characteristics can help gemologists determine if a gemstone is natural, synthetic, or treated.

The night sky lit up by shooting stars?

Photomicrography has another benefit. Gemstones are geologic time capsules, and by documenting their inclusions (microscopic characteristics enclosed within a gem), researchers can study the environment in which it grew. Sometimes scientists can use this information to help them provide an opinion  from where a gem originated. That’s important information because in some cases the same species of gemstone can sell for dramatically different prices depending on the country from which it was mined.

GIA researchers continue to use photomicrography to advance the science of gemology. The images in this blog are just a sampling of some of the stunning beauty that is revealed…modern art or microscopic science?

Trigons on Diamond. Magnification 200x

On this rough diamond from Wyoming, trigons, which are triangular indented growth marks on the surface, appear as colliding tectonic plates pushing pyramidal shapes into the sky – or so it seems to the imagination.

Apatite with Hematite Discs. Magnification 200x

Life begins as a cell divides is our imaginative interpretation of hematite discs in apatite from Mexico

Negative Crystal in Quartz. Magnification 50x.

A blue crystal that appears to be floating.  This is the illusion made by this petroleum-filled negative crystal in quartz from Pakistan. A negative crystal is an angular void within a gem that is sometimes filled with a liquid, solid, gas or combination of these three phases.

Fire agate. Magnification 25x

Imagine the canyons of New Mexico at sunset, but instead of being painted in desert hues it shimmers in a rainbow of colors. This fire agate seems well suited for our fanciful scene.

The post Beauty Revealed – Gemstones under the Microscope appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

A gemstone that conjures up images of heaven and earth, life and death, yin and yang, jade remains hugely popular in China, and all across the world. But did you know that jadeite is available in lavender (but not in pink?)

Find out these obscure facts and more with our exclusive Jade Buying Guide, which we’ve created as an infographic for our readers’ convenience. It’s packed with practical tips and quality factors to consider during the buying process, as well as answers to a few commonly asked questions we’ve heard bandied about over the years.

The guide is quick to download, easy to print, and makes for a handy visual companion to share with all your fellow jade enthusiasts. We hope you like it!

The post Jade Buying Guide appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Judging by what celebrities wear on the red carpet, luxury cocktail rings continue to reign supreme. If you’re looking to bring some sparkle to your favorite Valentine, consider giving her (or him?) a ring with gems of grand proportions, one that’s a fashion statement and a work of art. But be warned: while these jumbo rings dazzle on the red carpet, only some may be suitable for everyday wear.

One factor in determining a gem’s durability is its hardness or resistance to scratching. (There are other durability factors like toughness or resistance to breaking; and stability –  how a gem reacts to the effects of heat, light or chemicals. We’ll cover these in future posts.) Gemologists use the Mohs scale to describe the relative hardness of a stone. The scale runs from 1 to 10 and the higher the number, the harder the mineral.

We spotted some spectacular cocktail rings on the fingers of celebs at last fall’s Emmy Awards, and couldn’t resist rating them on the Mohs scale.

Diamonds rank a perfect 10 on the Mohs scale, and appeared on Emmy-winner Claire Danes from Showtime’s Homeland. She sparkled with a Neil Lane five carat elongated emerald-cut flawless diamond ring. Zosia Mamet from the HBO series Girls chose a black and brown diamond globe ring by Demarco. Uniquely strong,diamonds are the perfect accessory from the carpool to the catwalk.

Five carat elongated emerald-cut flawless diamond ring. Courtesy Neil Lane.

Beautiful and elegant black and brown diamond globe ring. Courtesy of Demarco.

Both Neil Lane ruby rings on The Big Bang Theory’s Kaley Cuoco rate a 9. Their vibrant red color is highly prized and in demand. Provided they are not heavily included, these romantic gems are quite durable for wearing daily.

Vibrant red rubies are highly prized and in demand. Courtesy of Neil Lane.

A pink topaz ring by Fred Leighton gleaming on Girls actress Allison Wiliams receives an 8.

Emeralds, like this 40 carat Lorraine Schwartz showstopper worn by Modern Family’s Sofia Vergara, rank between 7.5 and 8. Rings set with emeralds or topaz are perfect for a special occasion or a formal event. Care should be taken because they can chip, and high heat or chemicals could cause damage.

40 carat emerald Lorraine Schwartz ring worn by Modern Family’s Sofia Vergara.

Jorge Adeler “Rock Candy” ring with Citrine.

New Girl star Zooey Deschanel impressed with an ice blue tourmaline cocktail ring by Chanel. Its dazzling color range unmatched, tourmaline’s hardness is rated 7 to 7.5. Right alongside with a hardness of 7 is the citrine, worn by Taylor Schilling from the new Netflix series Orange is the New Black. Her “Rock Candy” ring by Jorge Adeler glistened a warm yellow. Both tourmaline and citrine could be damaged by chemicals, or prolonged exposure to sun or heat.

Zooey Deschanel wearning with an ice blue tourmaline cocktail ring by Chanel.

It’s best to consult a credentialed jeweler on the proper care for your valuable gems, however most stones can withstand mild cleaning with warm, soapy water. Learn more information on the Mohs scale and how other gems rank before your next purchase.

The post Ranking the Rings – How to Choose a Valentine’s Day Gift that Will Withstand the Test of Time appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Believe it or not, 2013 is nearing its close and 2014 trend reports are already on the horizon. But with engagement season upon us (according to a survey conducted by prominent online wedding site The Knot in 2011, 32% of engagements take place in November and December), let’s review a few of the hottest 2013 engagement ring trends of 2013 for those who are considering popping the question this holiday season.

Kelly Clarkson’s got engaged earlier this year with a stunning fancy color yellow diamond center stone.

Color Explosion
One trend seen from home décor to fashion to jewelry is the explosion of color. While it used to be that nearly every engagement ring featured a solitaire diamond, that trend has shifted with a number of brides choosing colored gems. Fancy yellow, pink, cognac and champagne diamonds, and also gemstones like sapphire—due in part to royal trendsetter Kate Middleton—are continuing to rise in popularity.

Desiree Hartsock’s engagement ring is a diamond, platinum and 18K rose gold “Romantic Entwined Ring” set with a central cushion-cut diamond.

Mixed Metals
The color trend isn’t limited to the center stone. Designers are incorporating mixed metals into engagement rings for a unique and colorful look. While platinum is still a top choice, the mixing of different colors of gold—white, yellow, and rose—creates a look that appeals to many brides looking for something distinct and versatile.

Scarlett Johansson shows off her Art Deco-inspired engagement ring.

Vintage and Art Deco
There’s something about vintage design that captures the romance for many brides-to-be. Vintage rings have increased in popularity over the last decade, and 2013 saw a particular interest in the Art Deco period. Many appreciate the intricate detailing, and the popularity of period shows like Downton Abbey and The Great Gatsby film have continued to fuel interest in designs iconic to the era. While many men propose with current interpretations of vintage or Art Deco designs, some, like Maroon 5 frontman Adam Levine, choose true vintage pieces, as when he proposed to Behati Prinsloo earlier this year with a 1930s ring.

Olivia Wilde’s engagement ring features a stunning halo design of emeralds surrounding the center diamond

Halo
While the double halo has been regaining popularity the past few years, 2013 took it up a notch.. Two tiered halo settings create the impression of an even larger center stone. The halo (or double halo) setting is often paired with a square or cushion-cut diamond, in place of the traditional round brilliant.

If you were engaged in 2013, tell us about your ring design. Does it follow one of these trends? Or do you wish one of these trends was around when you got engaged?

The post 2013 Engagement Ring Trends: Beyond the Diamond Solitaire appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

As the majority of the country heads into cooler temperatures of late fall/early winter, November’s birthstone, citrine, provides a much needed burst of sunshine. The warm, sunny color of this popular gemstone inspired its name, derived from the French word “citron,” meaning “lemon.” Its color ranges from saturated yellow to  reddish orange to pale  yellow.

Citrine is part of the mineral  species quartz, along with sibling gemstones amethyst, rose quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal quartz and tiger’s-eye quartz. Much of the citrine on the market today is actually amethyst that has been heat-treated to turn it  yellow. Occasionally, you will hear citrine referred to as topaz; however, topaz  is a different mineral.. Both citrine and topaz are birthstones for November, and the colors of  yellow topaz and citrine can easily be confused.

A 214.91 ct citrine, cut by Michael Dyber.

Like all quartz gems, citrine is readily available and affordable, including very large-size stones.

The warm hue of citrine is commonly paired with polished, yellow gold, as seen here:

Inspired by the stars and the cosmos, this “Pluto” ring has two citrines set in gold. Gift of Patricia MB Gotthif.

Its sunny color is also a bright addition to multi-colored designs, and can be frequently found in a bouquet of gems including amethyst, topaz, peridot, and tourmaline.

Group of five cut citrines. Ranging in color from yellow, orange and brown.

Most citrine is mined in Brazil, especially from the state of Rio Grande do Sul. However, large amounts of amethyst and citrine have also been found in the Anahí mine in Bolivia, as well as Africa.

With a hardness rating of 7 on the Mohs scale, and good toughness, citrine is durable and will hold up to everyday wear.  However, high heat can cause color loss so you do not want to expose it to sunlight for extended periods of time. Cleaning is simple; just use a mild dish soap and warm water.  It’s an easy-to-care-for, affordable, and distinctive gemstone, making it popular for those with November birthdays (and many others as well).

Suite of citrines. (C) ICA

Do you have a birthday this month? Do you think citrine looks best standing alone, or do you prefer it paired with other gems to create a multi-colored look?

*At top Cartier citrine and diamond bracelet. (C) GIA & Tino Hammid

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Black never goes out of fashion, and this season it’s taking a prominent place in fashion trends, especially in jewelry.

Black diamonds. Black pearls. Black spinel. The love of black-color gems and jewelry ranges from the most affordable to the most luxurious, and for good reason. It’s incredibly versatile. It’s the color of sophistication and elegance. It’s both edgy and timeless.

The surge in the popularity of black diamonds can be traced back to Carrie Bradshaw of Sex & the City  whose eclectic style influenced many women during the show’s six-year run. The black diamond engagement ring she received in the movie spinoff, Sex and the City 2, may have very well started the trend for this black gem.

While not Carrie Bradshaw’s five-carat black diamond ring from the film Sex and the City 2, many brides-to-be to look for something untraditional like this black diamond platinum ring.

Image courtesy of Platinum Guild International.

Black diamonds get their color either naturally or by treatment. Naturally colored black diamonds have black material like graphite, lining numerous inclusions (internal clarity characteristics), cleavages, and fractures.

Treated black diamonds are diamonds that have been exposed to radiation in a laboratory to change their color. These irradiated black diamonds are typically a very dark green color, but appear black to the eye. A GIA Identification Report is recommended when purchasing a black diamond; it will tell you if the diamond is natural or synthetic, and whether it was treated.

This cultured black pearl necklace is the perfect accessory for an elegant night out. Courtesy of Assael International.

Natural black pearls are one of the most rare and coveted gem materials, and make a dramatic and elegant statement. The majority of black pearls on the market are cultured pearls. Others are dyed black or irradiated, which typically results in a bluish-gray to greenish-black color. Because they can be challenging to distinguish, the GIA Pearl Identification and Pearl Classification reports can be helpful in identifying any detectable treatments.

When making a new pearl purchase, the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors can help you find quality pearls.

Black spinel is a popular – and less expensive – option if you want to turn heads. Other black gemstones include: onyx, ebony wood, jet, and black jade.

These award-winning earrings by GIA alumnus Anil Maloo of Baggins are a beautiful example of the range of color in pearls. The pair features two akoya pearls, two white South Sea pearls, and six Tahitian pearls set in 14k white gold with 2.42 carats diamonds.

Earrings by GIA alumnus Anil Maloo of Baggins.

Pandas in black and white diamonds are even rarer than the real ones. This diamond, black diamond, jade, and black onyx brooch by Ricardo Basta is unique – and showcases the craftsmanship of the designer.

Panda in black and white diamonds. Courtesy of Ricardo Basta.

Kara Ross’ The Maze locket evokes the work of contemporary architect Frank Gehry, famed for his use of bold, clashing shapes in his buildings. Ross accomplishes the same look with a Mother of Pearl shell, black sapphires, and silver. It is a mosaic of organic elements that has an unexpected iridescence.

Kara Ross Maze locket. Courtesy of Kara Ross.

Do you own any black gemstones? Would you wear a black engagement ring like Carrie Bradshaw? Let us know if this trend has made its way into your jewelry wardrobe!

The post Black Is the New Black appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

August’s fascinating birthstone may be called the “extreme gem” because it is formed in the most extreme conditions, found in lava, meteorites and deep within Earth’s mantle. Peridot has been found in pallasite meteorites, which contain remnants of our solar system’s birth. In 2006, peridot was found in comet dust brought back from the Stardust robotic space probe.

“The Green Goddess”, 154 carat peridot set in gold with yellow diamonds accents. Image courtesy of The Field Museum.

However, as exciting as extraterrestrial peridot is, it is more commonly found here on Earth, particularly in volcanic rocks known as basalts. The gemstone can commonly be found in lava flows in the United States, China and Vietnam. Sometimes peridot can be found as large crystals lining veins or pockets in certain types of solidified molten rock in Finland, Pakistan and Myanmar.

Peridot from Ethiopia. Image (c) ICA.

Throughout history, peridot has often been confused with other gems such as topaz and emerald. The Shrine of the Three Holy Kings in Germany’s Cologne Cathedral is decorated with 200 carats of gems. They were believed to be emeralds, but they are , in fact, peridots. Some historians even speculate Cleopatra’s famous emerald collection may have been comprised of peridot.

6.33carat peridot pendant set in 18k white gold.

Peridot is the gem variety of the mineral forsterite , which contains iron and magnesium. It is part of the mineral group olivine and ranges from yellowish green to greenish yellow. Peridot’s finest color is a richly saturated green to slightly yellowish-green that’s free of brownish tints.Smaller, lighter shades are widely available and more affordable. A well cut peridot can be a beautiful and brilliant gem.

Peridot with rich, deep yellow green color.

Peridot is softer than many gems with a hardness of 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale. Peridot should be stored with care to avoid scratching. It can be cleaned with mild dish soap in warm water using a toothbrush to scrub behind the stone where dust can collect. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning are not advised, as either of these methods risks damaging the stone.

Are you an August baby or do you just love peridot? Please share what makes peridot special to you!

The post Peridot: The Extreme Gem appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The world eagerly awaits news of the arrival of the newest British Royal, due to be born any day. The royal couple’s child will officially be known as His or Her Royal Highness Prince or Princess of Cambridge, a title fitting for a child that will likely inherit the throne, and along with it, the right to wear the British Crown Jewels. GIA has highlighted a few of the spectacular jewels, which are mostly kept secured at the Tower of London. 

The Sovereign’s Sceptre features the 530.2 carat Cullinan I diamond, which can be removed and worn as a brooch. Photo courtesy of Alan Jobbins.

The Sovereign’s Sceptre, originally dating back to the 1661 coronation of King Charles II, was redesigned in 1910 to accommodate the 530.20 carat gem, the Great Star of Africa. This diamond was the largest of the 105 diamonds of nearly flawless quality cut from the famous 3,106.75 carat Cullinan diamond.  If the first child of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge turns out to be a girl, the diamond can be removed from the sceptre and worn as a brooch for royal events.

The most frequently worn royal crown, the Imperial State Crown, features the Black Prince’s Ruby, one of the U.K.’s oldest Crown Jewels (14th c.).  Despite the name, gemologists determined that the ‘Ruby’ is actually a red spinel, most likely from mines in Asia known for yielding exceptionally large spinel crystals. The gem known as St. Edward’s Sapphire adorns the cross at the top of the crown, the famous 317.40 carat Cullinan II diamond (also known as the Lesser Star of Africa) is set on the front, and the back band features the stunning 104 carat Stuart Sapphire (17th c.).

If the baby is a girl, she will have a number of important jewels to choose from for her own coronation, including The Coronation Necklace, worn by Queens Alexandra, Mary, Elizabeth and Her Majesty The Queen at their coronation ceremonies. When Queen Victoria lost many family jewels in 1857, Garrard, the official crown jeweler at the time, was commissioned to design new pieces using gems taken from swords and other “useless things.” The Coronation Necklace was worn frequently by Queen Victoria and features 26 stones– nine between 8.25 and 11.25 carats – which were taken from a Garter badge and sword hilt.

Are you anxiously awaiting news of the arrival of the royal baby?  With the current popularity of ‘push presents,’ a jewelry gift given to the mother after giving birth, what do you think is an appropriate push present for the Duchess of Cambridge after giving birth to the future King or Queen of England?

Learn more about some of the other most prized British Royal Jewels.

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July’s mesmerizing birthstone was called “the king of precious stones” in ancient India. It remains a fitting title today.

Like its sister gemstone sapphire, ruby is a variety of the mineral corundum. Corundum in its purest form is colorless. The trace element of chromium gives corundum a red hue, which can range from orangy red to purplish red. The more chromium found in ruby, the greater the intensity of the red color.

Sapphire and ruby are varieties of the mineral corundum. Image courtesy Hamilton Jewelers.

The history, legend and lore around rubies spans centuries. Warriors in Burma thought rubies made them invincible in battle. Ancient Hindus believed those who offered rubies to the god Krishna would be granted rebirth as emperors. And many medieval Europeans wore rubies to guarantee health, wealth, wisdom and luck in love.

Oval-shaped, 6.16 carat ruby. Image courtesy (c) Christie’s Images/The Bridgeman Art Library.

Ruby is most prized for its color. A pure, vibrant red to slightly purplish-red ruby is considered the most desirable. The purest, most intense ruby color has historically been called “pigeon’s blood”. These rubies have vivid color saturation, which is not too dark. Inclusions in a ruby affect its transparency. Inclusion-free rubies are practically nonexistent, so a ruby’s value partly depends on how visible its inclusions are. Fine-quality rubies over one carat are rare, but are highly prized.

Ruby necklace, earrings and ring.

Treatments are often used to improve ruby’s color, and you can expect the majority of rubies to be heat-treated at the mine. Heating can render a more pure red color, and remove minute needle-like inclusions. Rubies may also be treated with a lead glass-like filling to lessen the visibility of surface-reaching fractures and make the gem more transparent than it really is.

Synthetic rubies are also widely available and at many price points. In fact, in the late 1800s ruby became the first gem to be created in a laboratory. If you’re considering a ruby purchase, expect your jeweler to disclose whether the gem’s been treated or lab-created. And if buying a ruby you might consider purchasing a ruby with a GIA Ruby Report, which will confirm that your stone is, in fact, a natural ruby, identify any known treatments, and even indicate its geographic origin.

Synthetic triangle cut ruby is 3.90 carats and ruby crystal is 162.43 carats.

Ruby is the most durable gemstone, with a hardness rating of 9 on the Mohs scale, so it is relatively easy to care for. Cleaning a ruby regularly with just a little mild soapy water and a soft toothbrush is enough to maintain its fiery luster.

What shade of ruby do you prefer?

The post Ruby: The Undisputed King of the Red Gemstones appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The legendary beauty of June’s luminescent birthstone has been celebrated for centuries. We explored the pearl’s history and lore, the various types of pearls available, and how a pearl’s value is assessed and what to look for when purchasing a pearl. Now we are going to discuss how to care for one!

Pearls are one of the more delicate gemstones, so they require extra care. Avoid wearing pearls when cleaning the house or doing yard work to avoid scratching. Chemicals contained in perfume and the ingredients in makeup and hairspray can eat away a pearl’s nacre, causing it to dull permanently. Cleaning products containing chemicals such as ammonia and chlorine should also to be avoided, so don’t ever wear your pearls in the pool!

Pearls need a certain amount of moisture to retain their beauty, so avoid storing them in airtight or overly dry environments. Luckily, the human body provides just the right amount of moisture to maintain a pearl’s effervescent luster. Pearls are made to be worn and enjoyed!

Here are some more great tips to help keep your pearls as beautiful 50 years from now as they are today.

• The best way to clean pearls is with a soft, damp cloth, ideally after each time they are worn.
• Pearls should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Warm soapy water is safe, assuming the nacre is in good condition. Make sure strung pearls are completely dry before wearing.
• Store pearls separately from gemstones and metal jewelry, which may scratch their surface.
• Never store your pearls in a plastic bag. Plastic can emit a chemical that will damage the surface of pearls. The same is true of cotton wool.
• Don’t store pearls in a safe deposit box for long periods of time. Like your skin, pearls need a little moisture so that they will not dry out.
• Always apply perfume, hair products and cosmetics before putting on your pearl jewelry.
• A good rule of thumb is: when dressing, pearls should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off.

We hope you’ve enjoyed learning about pearl care. If you are looking for more information on these spectacular gemstones, you will enjoy our new book ‘Splendour & Science of Pearls‘.

The post Caring for June’s Birthstone: Pearls Part 4 appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.