Russia hosted the 2014 Winter Olympic Games in Sochi, but did you know that it’s the country that wins the gold medal for diamond production?”

Alrosa mined 34.4 million carats of diamonds last year, well ahead of De Beers’ total of 27.9 million, which most people equate the world’s leader in diamond production. In fact, Alrosa has relegated De Beers to “silver medal” status for the past three years.

There is an asterisk next to Alrosa’s King of Diamonds status, however. The majority of diamonds mined in Russia are relatively small compared to the stones found in Botswana and South Africa, where De Beers does most of its mining. Which means that for now, De Beers remains the leader in diamond sales, taking in about $6 billion last year, compared to Alrosa’s $4.8 billion.

Eight Russian diamond crystals, 1.05 ct total weight, Yakutia. Courtesy of Thomas Hunn Co.

If Alrosa is not a household name like De Beers, it’s because from 1960 to 1992 the first diamonds were mined in Mirnyi, a remote area in Siberia.

Diamond mining in Mirnyi is not for the faint of heart. The town is located in eastern Siberia. Winter days get six or less hours of sunlight. Temperatures are typically well below zero (-35°C is not unusual). Jet engines and explosives are used to melt the permafrost.

Until the 1990s, Russia had regarded its diamond operations as a top state secret. The country, then known as the Soviet Union, sold most of its diamonds through De Beers. After the Soviet Union broke up, the government in Moscow, in cooperation with the province of Yakutia where Mirnyi is located, created Alrosa to mine and market its trove. And, about seven years ago, Alrosa began selling Russia’s diamonds on its own, without De Beers’ help.

View of diamond mining operations in the Siberian craton of the Republic of Sakha (formerly Yakutia). This view is looking down into the open pit.

Alrosa says it will be mining diamonds for a very long time, claiming reserves of 970 million carats. To put it into perspective, that’s five times the yearly production of the entire world. Alrosa is aiming to keep its gold metal status by ramping up production in 2014. But don’t count out DeBeers, as it still remains the source for large diamonds.

To keep the Winter Olympics conversation going, you now have some interesting bit of trivia you can share: the diamond industry is not dominated by De Beers. And the gold medal for diamond production goes to Alrosa.

But here’s the real point: Every diamond is unique. A dazzling flawless stone and a cloudy included one can come from the same mine. So can a brilliantly colorless one and another whose color is “light.” There will be super stones that will fetch millions at auction, and tiny dark ones that are destined for industrial use.

A GIA grading report will let you know the characteristics of the diamond that’s caught your eye. And that lets you buy with confidence and peace of mind.

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As seen during the 2013 Oscars, vintage jewelry and diamonds continue to live in the spotlight, as evidenced by the Fred Leighton 19th Century oval and cushion cut diamond bracelet worn by Jennifer Aniston. But do you know the storied history behind your favorite vintage diamond cuts?

Centuries ago, diamond cutting was a slow process. The less material the cutter removed from the original rough diamond crystal, the more quickly he completed his work. Diamond cutters wages were penalized if they took too long or removed too much material. Therefore, the typical cut during this time was actually a squarish, sometimes slightly oval cushion-brilliant, or what most in the jewelry industry now refer to as an “old mine cut.” The defining characteristics are an often squarish shape and the diamond’s crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) are both much deeper than today’s standards.

Early mechanized, steam-driven factories in Amsterdam best illustrate how diamonds were cut in Europe and throughout the world at the time. Coster’s Amsterdam cutting house – in the mid-1800’s was the largest diamond cutting establishment in the world, still employed a labor-intensive process that included three phases of operation, each requiring workmen with specialized skills: 1) splitting or cleaving, 2) cutting, and 3) polishing.

Plot diagram.

Three events led to the more modern styles: in the 1870’s a “bruting” machine gave the diamond a round outline and the first angle gauges led cutters to use the angles associated with today’s modern cuts. In 1900 the circular saw came into use, making it far easier to split the typical octahedral-shaped diamond rough crystal into two pieces making it possible to cut the smaller top piece into a finished diamond, rather than just grinding it away. By 1902, many in the industry realized that using the saw saved weight from the common octahedral diamond crystals, which meant that the new proportions could be cut without expensive waste of diamond rough, shifting the emphasis from weight recovery to the beauty of the styles that we see today.

Natural yellow, old mine cut diamond.

These old-fashioned cutting techniques may have changed, but the gems from that era have a charm all their own, waiting for you to discover.

Discuss why you think vintage diamond cuts are a trend that is here to stay!

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Some diamond cut’s never go out of style, especially when they boast a royal heritage and have been redesigned and reinvented. Such is the case with the popular Asscher cut.

The Asscher cut was first developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, and became popular in the Art-Deco movement and following World War I. Although similar to an emerald cut, the Asscher cut’s 58 facets are larger and wide-set (three rows on the top, three rows on the bottom), and the stone is nearly octagonal in shape. Joseph Asscher saw an opportunity to better use rough diamond crystals to his advantage, therefore retaining more weight than the stone could with other styles of cutting.

Asscher Cut Earring

Because of the shape of the stone and the way the facets are cut, Asscher cut stones retain a classic appearance with a better balance of scintillation than a similar emerald cut, while still exhibiting a quieter aesthetic than a modern brilliant style cut.

Although the original Asscher cut is mostly seen in Art-Deco style jewelry from the early twentieth century, two very important (and world-renowned) gems carry the Asscher name. Originally cut from the same 3,105 ct. rough diamond by Joseph Asscher and Abraham Asscher, the Cullinan I diamond and the Cullinan II diamond are two of the most famous stones in the world. The pear-shaped Cullinan I, at 530.20 cts, sits atop the royal scepter in the British crown jewels, and the cushion-shaped Cullinan II (317.4 cts.) lies in the British imperial state crown.

Over the last ten years, it seems as though mentions of Asscher cut diamonds in popular bridal media has increased in the United States, which may be due to Edward Asscher’s redesign of the diamond. After visiting the GIA’s International Gemological Symposium in 1999 and realizing that the Asscher cut was still popular in the United State, Edward Asscher (grandson of Joseph Asscher, who created the original cut) returned to the Netherlands with an idea to craft a new, more dynamic species of Asscher cut diamonds, with even more brilliance and shine than before. The Royal Asscher cut diamond boasts 16 more facets than the original Asscher cut’s 58, allowing the diamond to catch light much better. Edward Asscher added two additional rows of eight facets each to the bottom of the stone, and subsequently making the rows narrower, he was able to keep the classic feel of his grandfather’s original cut while making the stone’s appearance more dynamic. With both the Asscher cut and the Royal Asccher cut, these angles and proportions used are critical to the beauty and brilliance of the diamond.

Nowadays, both the original Asscher cut and the Royal Asscher cut diamonds are popular, either in vintage jewelry stores or as new stones. Asscher cuts can often vary slightly in cut, proportions, and angles, as the cutter of the diamond decides the ultimate details of their rendition of the cut. However, the Royal Asscher cut boasts an international patent, meaning that the Royal Asscher Company limits the range of angles that can be used in cutting the diamond and is the only company allowed to cut a Royal Asscher stone.

The post The Asscher Cut: A Cut of Royalty and Reinvention appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Queen Elizabeth ascended the throne 60 years ago this month. When she was coronated a year later, she wore the ultimate symbol of royal authority – the Imperial State Crown.

This is the quintessential crown. Set with 2868 diamonds in silver mounts, it has an open work gold frame and is fitted inside with a purple velvet cap and ermine fur headband. The jewels mounted on the frame are breathtaking.

At the front of the crown is the Cullinan II – a cushion-shaped 317.4-carat brilliant, the second largest stone cut from the Cullinan diamond. Above it set in a cross paty sits the “Black Prince’s Ruby” – which is not a ruby at all but an irregular 170-carat cabochon red spinel. At the back of the crown is the Stuart Sapphire, a 104 carat oval-shaped sapphire . Along the headband, these 2 stones are separated by 8 step-cut emeralds and 8 sapphires, between 2 rows of cultured pearls.

Crown Creator: Garrard & Co (jeweller), Creation Date: 1937

There are 2 arches above the headband and velvet cap. At the base of the 3 remaining arches, the crosses are mounted with step-cut emeralds. The arches are molded as oak leaves with diamonds and seed pearl acorns. As the arches reach up and over the velvet cap, underneath the intersection, it is mounted with 4 drop-shaped pearls called Queen Elizabeth’s Earrings. The base of each arch is separated by 4 fleur-de-lis, each set with sapphires, rubies and diamonds.

The top piece on the crown is an orb called a “monde”, of fretted silver, pavé-set with small round brilliants. The cross paty above it is set with “St. Edward’s Sapphire,” an octagonal rose-cut sapphire. Engraved small metal plaques have been placed behind the Black Prince’s Ruby and the Stuart Sapphire to commemorate the history of the crown.

Photo courtesy of Royal Collection (c) Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

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Shimmering with an internal fire all its own, diamond is one of the world’s most sought-after and adored gemstones. Those born in the fair month of April are lucky enough to call this scintillating stone their “birthstone,” a symbol of clarity and strength. Diamond is so strong, in fact, , that its name comes from the Greek “adamastos,” or “invincible.”

A diamond’s quality is evaluated by the 4Cs: color, clarity, cut, and carat weight.

Color refers to the absence of color in a diamond. The less color in the stone, the more desirable and valuable it is.

Clarity measures the amount, size and placement of internal inclusions, and external blemishes. Grades run from Flawless, with virtually no imperfections, to Included, with a significant number of imperfections.

Cut refers to the proportion and arrangement of the diamond’s facets and the quality of workmanship. The amount of brilliance, sparkle and fire in a diamond is determined by cut.

Carat weight refers to a diamond’s weight. Most often, the higher the carat weight, the more expensive the stone.

Diamonds have remained a staple in historical and modern culture, adored by everyday girls and movie stars alike. Elizabeth Taylor’s famous book, My Love Affair with Jewelry, is filled with diamond images and memories; in December 2011, one of her larger diamonds sold for a record $11,842,500 at auction. The 50-carat stunner was sold after only four minutes of bidding. In 2006, actress Ellen Barkin’s post-divorce auction of the GIA-graded diamond gifts her husband had given her yielded very large numbers, including a diamond hair pin that went for $4,800 and a diamond solitaire “thread” ring for $1.8 million.

Other leading ladies who fancy diamonds include Queen Elizabeth of England (also born in April), who frequently decorates her outfits with diamond necklaces and other beautiful pieces of diamond jewelry. Red carpet events in the U.S. and around the world are replete with starlets donning diamonds from earrings to necklaces to surprising accessories. Actress Nicole Kidman once wore dueling diamond cuffs on each wrist, with 375 carats of diamonds on each, worth over $2,000,000 combined.

Diamond holds center stage for pop culture and historical jewelry references. Perhaps this is because the inherent strength and beauty of a diamond is unmatched. The famous phrase “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” just might ring true for you; and those born in the month of April rejoice in being gifted with a diamond stone to celebrate.

The post The April Birthstone Sparkles and Shimmers appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

As it turns out, in the New York jewelry district on Maiden Lane, neighboring buildings were painted yellow—and these buildings faced the windows from which dealers judged color in the north daylight! Several dealers said they would need to vacate their offices because of the colors—so they pooled their funds and offered to repaint the offending buildings.

Thanks to John M. King, Ron H. Geurts, Al M. Gilbertson, and James E. Shigley for the story in Color Grading “D-Z” Diamonds at the GIA Laboratory, Gems & Gemology, Vol. 44, No. 4.

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Early attempts to synthesize diamonds date all the way back to the nineteenth century. But the process of duplicating the extreme heat and pressure under which natural diamonds are formed was elusive. In 1955, General Electric overcame these technological barriers and produced small, industrial-quality stones – the first synthetic diamonds. Since then, the processes of synthesizing diamonds have gotten better and better.

Gem-quality synthetic diamonds have been available to consumers since the mid-1980s. While they represent a small segment of the market, they are becoming more widespread and increasingly difficult to detect when purchasing diamonds. GIA is at the forefront in meeting this challenge, giving a distinct report for synthetics so that there is no confusion in the marketplace.

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