Coral is one of the oldest substances in nature to be used in jewelry. For thousands of years, decorative art objects have displayed this  treasure from the sea. The resurgence of vintage coral items at auctions around the world last fall hints that this favored material has enduring style, blooming in shades from pale pink to deep red. Buyers had more choices of period coral collectibles than in past seasons, and many of the pieces sold quite well.

Property from the Collection of Maria Monet Markowitz
18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Coral and Diamond Flower Brooch, Cartier. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.

Many pieces offered at recent auctions date back to a time when the grand jewelry houses began to create more modern designs with new materials, like this carved coral rosebud brooch by Cartier, circa 1955.  The pin also features 18-karat gold leaves accented by round and single-cut diamonds. It sold at Sotheby’s New York in December for $27,500.

Coral, emerald and diamond choker, Cartier, 1949. Photo courtesy Sothebys.

Also in December, Sotheby’s London auctioned this exquisite coral choker created in 1948 by Cartier for Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. Twenty-three strands of coral beads are joined by a tubular clasp set with carved emeralds and single-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds. Royal historian and biographer Hugo Vickers described this piece of history as a “mixture of the very formal and very special, and also the very informal and very modern.” The necklace – known as a torsade –  sold for more than $180,000.

Coral and diamond ear pendants, by David Webb. Courtesy of Cristie’s Images LTD. 2013

These vintage David Webb coral and diamond earrings went to one lucky bidder at Christie’s New York in December for $50,000. The surmount (the post part of the earring) sports a coral sugarloaf cabochon surrounded by diamonds, and each detachable pendant suspends a pear-shaped cabochon coral drop, centered in a platinum and circular-cut diamond surround.

A coral, diamond and enamel bracelet. Courtesy of Cristie’s Images LTD. 2013

A coral, diamond and enamel bracelet from Christie’s New York almost appears like a sea creature itself. Its sculptural design connects hourglass-shaped coral links, each having bezel set diamonds with black enamel accents inlaid into the coral. The bracelet sold at the auction house in October for $15,000.

Demand for quality coral exceeds supply, and the natural material is considered endangered. Today, many coral lovers opt for vintage jewelry, or turn to dyed resin, or man-made simulants as a way to celebrate this ocean treasure.

Lean more about coral, read GIA’s study on useful way to identify its color origins.

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