Like the famous Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, the Taylor-Burton Diamond was another of Richard Burton’s extravagant gifts to wife Elizabeth Taylor during their public and tumultuous marriages. It’s also the final famous diamond in our series.

Photo by Gianni Bozzacchi. Reprinted by permission.

The couple’s emotionally-charged private life often drew more attention than their movie roles, and their luxurious tastes, Taylor’s love for diamonds especially, were legendary.

The 69.42-carat diamond is a D-color, flawless, pear-shape with 58 facets and was graded by GIA. Following its discovery in South Africa in 1966, it was cut by Harry Winston and eventually sold to Cartier for $1.05 million in 1969. Burton purchased the diamond the very next day for an estimated $1.1 million (the exact amount has never been disclosed), Crowds lined the streets for the chance to catch a glimpse of the famous diamond before Burton picked up the gift for Taylor.

The expensive gift was just one of many exchanged between Taylor and Burton during their first marriage. Taylor originally wore the diamond in a ring, but eventually had it redesigned by Cartier into a necklace. During her ownership of the famous gem from 1969 to 1978, Elizabeth Taylor wore the beautiful necklace to the 1970 Academy Awards. She later sold the necklace and donated part of the proceeds to help fund a hospital in Botswana.

Main image courtesy of Mouawad.

The post Famous Diamonds: The Taylor-Burton Diamond appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Photo by Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images

The two gems were loved by Queen Mary, wife of King George V, In 1911, she had Cullinan III, a pear-shape drop of 94.40 carats, and Cullinan IV, a cushion-shape stone of 63.60 carats, mounted temporarily in a lattice-work setting and placed into her new crown made by Garrard for the coronation.

The following year, the Delhi Durbar Tiara was adapted to hold both stones. Cullinan III and IV were occasionally used as a pendant to the Coronation Necklace in place of the Lahore Diamond.

However, the stones were most often worn hooked together as a pendant brooch, which is why the brooch is typically referred to as “Granny’s Chips.” She wore the brooch to important family events, including her children’s weddings, the 1937 coronation of her son George VI, and her grandaughter Princess Elizabeth’s

The post Famous Diamonds: Granny’s Chips appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Chip Clark, Smithsonian Institution.

What is documented is the 1928 sale of the diamond. It is believed the diamond was found in South Africa in 1910 or 1912. One of America’s oldest and finest jewelers, Black, Starr & Frost fashioned it into a platinum choker studded with diamonds and sold it to actress and performer Peggy Hopkins Joyce. In 1951, Harry Winston acquired the diamond from Joyce and it traveled the country as part of Winston’s “Court of Jewels” exhibition, before landing at the Smithsonian as the largest faceted diamond in the National Gem Collection.

Some diamonds emit visible light – termed fluorescence – when exposed to invisible ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Blue is the most common fluorescent color and the Portuguese is a classic example of a blue fluorescent diamond referred to as an “overblue”. These diamonds of extremely strong fluorescence may exhibit a noticeable oily or hazy appearance when excited by any of a number of light sources, including daylight. This characteristic, combined with a VS1 clarity and unusual octagonal step cut, makes the Portuguese one of the world’s most famous gems.

The post Famous Diamonds: The Portuguese appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Jewelry designers have long been enchanted by the sea. It’s a subject rich in beauty, myth, and romance – all classic elements of fine jewelry.

The famed marine explorer, Jacques Cousteau, perfectly captures the allure of underwater life in his statement: “The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”

This “net of wonder” is vast in size, capturing the artists’ imagination and transforming it into many mediums. Creative inspiration is found across the centuries in various art forms: from Herman Melville’s Moby Dick, to 19^th century painter Renoir’s Still Life with Fish, to Pixar’s Finding Nemo.

The name of this diamond, ruby, black diamond and tourmaline piece, “Nemo,” tells the inspiration for jewelry artist Ricardo Basta. Image courtesy of Ricardo Basta.

A few facts help explain why the sea beckons the jewelry designer. Below the surface of the waves lies an underwater kingdom of more than 27,000 different species of fish. They range in size from the massive whale shark, which can grow to 50+ feet; to the tiny Timmatom nanus of the Indo-west Pacific, which is a mere one centimeter. This incredible diversity of life provides an endless source of inspiration.

Courtesy Vartanian & Sons

This sailfish brooch by Tiffany & Co. is made with pavé set diamonds, gold, and platinum. Superb craftsmanship and masterful enameling (notice the blues and greens on the fins and head) make this piece extremely lifelike. Courtesy Vartanian & Sons

Angelfish brooch is made of diamonds, blue sapphires, coral and gold. Image courtesy of Ricardo Basta

Another playful piece from Ricardo Basta, this Angelfish brooch is made of diamonds, blue sapphires, coral and gold. Weaving its way through a coral bed, the little fellow looks like he’s swimming happily through life.

Which of these might you like to reel in for your personal collection?

The post Ocean-Inspired Jewelry Captures the Beauty of the Underwater World appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

May’s birthstone, emerald, is aptly named the gem of spring. Its vibrant green color evokes a lush garden. In fact, inclusions in emeralds are sometimes called an internal “jardin,” the French word for “garden.” The most desirable emeralds range from bluish green to green with vivid color saturation.

If you’re considering an emerald purchase, GIA’s Emerald Buying Guide puts all the information you need at your fingertips, including what quality factors to look for and an explanation why the most common cut of emerald is, appropriately, the emerald cut. Bookmark and share!

The post Emerald Buying Guide appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The 245.35-carat Jubilee Diamond, discovered in the Jagersfontein Mine in 1895, is part of the Mouawad diamond collection.

The 650.80-carat rough stone was discovered at the Jagersfontein Mine in South Africa in 1895 and was originally called the Reitz Diamond, after Francis William Reitz, who was president of the Orange Free State where the diamond was uncovered. The diamond was cut and polished to its current size in 1896. Due to the stones size and purity, the diamond was originally planned to be presented to Queen Victoria, however that did not happen. It was, nevertheless, renamed in 1897 to honor the 60th anniversary of the coronation of Queen Victoria.

The famous diamond changed hands in 1900, when Indian businessman Sir Dorabji Jamshedji Tata purchased the cushion-shaped diamond. The diamond was sold a few years after Dorabji’s death in 1932, and the proceeds, along with his entire fortune, funded the Sir Dorabji Tata Trust dedicated to advancing learning and research, relief work and other charitable purposes.

Learn about the The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, Cullinan II, Koh-i-noor and The Orlov, all part of our famous diamonds series.

The post Famous Diamonds: The Jubilee appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Ready for a stunning surprise? Put a gemstone under a high-powered microscope, and you’ll see a world of breathtaking beauty.

GIA researchers explore this hidden universe by photographing gemstones at magnifications up to 1,000 times larger than what the unaided eye can see. Called photomicrography, this technique is used to capture the internal gemological characteristics that are revealed under the microscope. These characteristics can help gemologists determine if a gemstone is natural, synthetic, or treated.

The night sky lit up by shooting stars?

Photomicrography has another benefit. Gemstones are geologic time capsules, and by documenting their inclusions (microscopic characteristics enclosed within a gem), researchers can study the environment in which it grew. Sometimes scientists can use this information to help them provide an opinion  from where a gem originated. That’s important information because in some cases the same species of gemstone can sell for dramatically different prices depending on the country from which it was mined.

GIA researchers continue to use photomicrography to advance the science of gemology. The images in this blog are just a sampling of some of the stunning beauty that is revealed…modern art or microscopic science?

Trigons on Diamond. Magnification 200x

On this rough diamond from Wyoming, trigons, which are triangular indented growth marks on the surface, appear as colliding tectonic plates pushing pyramidal shapes into the sky – or so it seems to the imagination.

Apatite with Hematite Discs. Magnification 200x

Life begins as a cell divides is our imaginative interpretation of hematite discs in apatite from Mexico

Negative Crystal in Quartz. Magnification 50x.

A blue crystal that appears to be floating.  This is the illusion made by this petroleum-filled negative crystal in quartz from Pakistan. A negative crystal is an angular void within a gem that is sometimes filled with a liquid, solid, gas or combination of these three phases.

Fire agate. Magnification 25x

Imagine the canyons of New Mexico at sunset, but instead of being painted in desert hues it shimmers in a rainbow of colors. This fire agate seems well suited for our fanciful scene.

The post Beauty Revealed – Gemstones under the Microscope appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Wondering where to start in creating your jewelry wardrobe? GIA put together this list of 11 Peices of Jewelry Every Women Should Own. Jewelry essentials to ensure that you have the perfect accessory for any event. Click on the image below to see a larger view. Bookmark and share!

The post 11 Peices of Jewelry Every Woman Should Own appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

When does yellow become orange, and orange become red? The question may sound a bit philosophical until you tie it to colored diamonds, where slight variations in color can mean huge differences in price.

This stunning collection shows the vast spectrum of color available in colored diamonds.

Determining the color of a diamond is no easy task. There are a number of factors that make it especially challenging.

To start, two people can see the same color differently.  Color Vision scientist Joseph Carroll went so far as to say, “I think we can say for certain that people don’t see the same colors.” One person’s velvety blue might be another person’s deep blue.

Now throw in color memory, which can be faulty. We rely on the past to decide what the color is of the object right in front of us. The red rose we admired last spring becomes the reference for the red rose this spring. But as a species, we have poor color memory: the deep red rose of last spring might have been brighter than you remembered.

Terminology is another challenge. Try describing “periwinkle”or “mauve.” In order to communicate color accurately, we need clearly defined terms and color references that can be shared.

Because the issue of color perception and communication is so complicated, an objective color standard is vital – especially when colored diamonds can sell for millions of dollars. GIA researchers had to take these factors into account when they developed a color grading system for colored diamonds.

The GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading Systemhad its origins in the 1950s, when the Institute started receiving numerous client requests to determine if colored diamonds had been treated to improve their color. GIA continued enhancing the system by assembling masterstones (reference diamonds) in the 1960s, and creating official terminology to describe colored diamonds. It was refined once again in 1994, and this is the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System  we know today.

GIA’s proprietary collection of masterstones may well be one of the largest of any grading laboratory in the world. GIA continually assesses the collection and these masterstones serve as permanent color references for graders.

GIA’s Pink Diamond Color Chart shows how the depth of color transitions between stones. (Note that these samples are representative only; not all diamond appearances are included. These gemstones are also not precisely positioned within the grades.)

GIA researchers also recognized that the surrounding environment, the viewer, and the light source all affected color perception.  For example, the color of a red diamond can appear warmer or cooler depending on the lighting.  For this reason, GIA uses the Macbeth Judge II Light Box for grading because it provides a neutral color environment and produces color-balanced lighting.

Another way GIA ensures consistency and accuracy in its grading is in its selection of colored diamond graders. Potential graders have to pass a series of tests and complete special training before they become preliminary colored diamond graders.

The result of these efforts is the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System – a repeatable process that removes subjectivity and ensures that a colored diamond is described accurately.

The color circle above shows the GIA hues for colored diamonds.

GIA’s system is recognized as the universal language for colored diamonds by virtually every gem and jewelry professional around the world, so it’s no surprise that that many of the world’s most important colored diamonds have been graded by GIA.

GIA graded this 59.6-carat diamond, named the Pink Star. Other important GIA-graded colored diamonds include: the blue Hope, the blue Heart of Eternity, the orange Pumpkin Diamond, the Moussaieff Red, the Wittelsbach Blue (renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff), and many others. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.

With GIA’s  reliable system in place, buyers around the world can shop confidently for these rare beauties.

The post Decoding Color: The GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

When you’re shopping for a diamond, its brightness and sparkle will draw you to the jewelry counter, and keep you captivated long after you’ve made your diamond purchase. Achieving maximum brightness and sparkle requires excellent cutting technique, which is reflected in the diamond’s cut grade. Of the 4Cs, no other ‘C’ has more impact on a diamond’s appearance.

When people think of “cut,” they often think of the shape of a diamond rather than its cut quality. Cut is all about a diamond’s fire, sparkle, and brightness, and as a value factor, it refers to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish; those factors that determine the cut quality or the fourth ‘C.’

In January 2006, GIA began assigning cut grades for round brilliant cut diamonds. Based on a comprehensive study that included 70,000 observations on more than 2,300 diamonds, GIA’s cut grading system assigns a diamond a grade of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor.

A number of complex factors are considered when evaluating a diamond’s cut grade: its proportions, the symmetry of its facet arrangements, and the quality of its polish or finish. The cut grade reflects the diamonds appearance

In this post, we’ll focus on proportions – represented by the diamond diagram that appears on all GIA Diamond Grading Reports and GIA Diamond Dossiers. By learning about proportions, you’ll also learn the basics of a diamond’s anatomy, and gain an understanding of one factor that goes into setting a cut grade, determined from a combination of measured parameters.

Before we begin the Diamond Anatomy lesson, let’s be clear that no single proportion measurement is an indicator of what that diamond’s cut grade will be. GIA researchers proved that while every individual facet matters, a diamond’s appearance arises from the combined contribution of all its proportions. Even though all of a diamond’s parameters might be within the limits for a particular grade, a diamond might actually receive a lower cut grade when the parameters interact in a negative way to lessen a diamond’s appearance.

Therefore, for round brilliant cut diamonds, GIA considers how a diamond’s proportions relate to each other, rather than considering individual proportions in isolation.

Table Size: The table is the top horizontal facet of the diamond. The average table size is expressed as a percentage of the diamond’s average girdle diameter. While an ‘Excellent’ grade diamond will have a table size between 52 and 62 percent, other proportions are important too. Remember that GIA doesn’t consider individual proportions in isolation.

Total Depth: The diamond’s overall depth from the surface of the table to the culet, expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter.

Pavilion Depth: The pavilion is the lower portion of a diamond from the bottom edge of the girdle to the culet. The pavilion depth is expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. A pavilion depth that’s too shallow or too deep will allow light to escape from the side or bottom of the stone. A well-cut diamond will direct more light upward through the crown.

Pavilion Angle: Pavilion angle is another important dimension of the stone, especially as it relates to a diamond’s brightness. It is the average of the angles formed by the diamond’s pavilion main facets and its girdle plane. This should fall between 40.6 and 41.8 degrees to be considered “Excellent,” providing other parameters also fit their proper ranges.

Crown Height: The crown is the upper portion of the diamond, from the top edge of the girdle to the table. The average crown height is expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. It can affect both the dispersion and brightness of a diamond.

Crown Angle: The crown angle is the angle that’s formed where the bezel facets meet the girdle plane. The crown angle in a well-cut diamond will be within 31.5 to 36.5 degrees. The crown angle has a large effect on the face-up appearance of a round brilliant cut diamond. The best range of crown angles provide a route for exiting light dispersion, as well as additional contrasting directions for entering light. Star Length: The horizontally projected distance from the point of the star facet to the edge of the table, relative to the distance between the table edge and the girdle edge. A well-cut diamond will range between 40 to 70 percent, when other parameters are within the correct ranges

Girdle Thickness: The girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating the crown from the pavilion, and functions as the diamond’s setting edge. The girdle thickness is described as a range from its thinnest to thickest areas. A thick girdle is less desirable because it unnecessarily adds weight to the stone where it matters the least (making the diamond appear smaller). An extremely thin girdle is sometimes referred to as a knife-edge, and results in a diamond that is more fragile and susceptible to chipping. Therefore, a girdle that is “medium to slightly thick” is preferred.

Lower Girdle / Half Facet Length: This ratio is measured by calculating how long the lower girdle facets are relative to the length of the pavilion. This defines the contrast of a round brilliant cut diamond, which controls the brilliance of a diamond. The well-cut diamond will range between 65 to 90 percent. Diamonds with longer lower half facets will have a little more scintillation.

Culet: The culet is the small facet at the bottom of a diamond intended to prevent chipping and abrasion to the point. The culet size can affect face-up appearance and it’s described as the average width of the facet. Size is expressed as none, very small, small, medium, slightly large, large, very large, and extremely large. When there is no culet, it is sometimes referred to as a pointed culet. Preferably the culet will not be visible with the unaided eye, and when described as none (no culet), very small or small on a GIA report, it falls in the excellent range.

Now that you understand diamond proportions, you’re one third of the way to learning about the factors that influence a diamond’s cut grade. We’ll cover finish, polish, and symmetry in later posts.

An “Excellent” in GIA’s cut grading system will tell you what most people prefer. However, our best advice as you shop around is to do what GIA researchers did – look at a number of diamonds. After all, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and your own eyes will tell you whether or not a diamond’s cut is right for you.

The post Diamond Anatomy, Explained appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.