It began in gritty rock clubs in London and ended up on fashion runways in New York – that’s the long, strange trip taken by punk rock-inspired jewelry.

Earlier this year, punk jewelry came into the spotlight with the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibit Punk: Chaos to Couture, which examined “punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today.”

The exhibit’s opening gala attracted A-listers like Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Tommy Hilfiger, while Chanel, Burberry, and Dolce & Gabbana contributed outlandish fashions. No fashion statement would be complete without jewelry, and punk-inspired accessories rocked the red carpet with dark metals and black diamonds, spike studs and ear cuffs.

“Punk was born in a rebellious era, when creative and resourceful individuals used ordinary objects to make a statement. Now it’s resurfaced in couture closets and jewelry boxes, dressed up in gold and diamonds – but still with an edgy look,” says GIA Exhibit Developer and Graduate Jeweler & Graduate Gemologist McKenzie Santimer.

Although these unorthodox designs may not appeal to traditional jewelry connoisseurs they’re certainly fun to admire. Check out how some celebrities chose to show off their punkier side at the Costume Institute Gala and opening of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibition.

Jessica Alba wearing 18k white gold, black rhodium, and diamond serpent earrings from Jack Vartanian’s Glam Leopard Collection.

These 18k white gold, black rhodium, and diamond serpent earrings snaked up the ears of Jessica Alba for her red carpet appearance. From Jack Vartanian’s Glam Leopard Collection.

Lauren Santo Domingo wearing blacked white gold and diamond rings by Eva Fehren.

Lauren Santo Domingo, co-Founder of Moda Operandi, contributing editor to Vogue, and co-chair of the exhibition, wore these blacked white gold and diamond rings by Eva Fehren. The criss-cross design is reminiscent of the ripped, torn garments of the punk rock style

Diane Kruger wearing palladium and black and white diamond ear cuffs by Jacob & Co.

These palladium and black and white diamond ear cuffs were the perfect complement to Diane Kruger’s feminine yet edgy look. Jacob & Co. custom-made these clip-on earrings for Kruger.

January Jones wearing 18k yellow gold, opal and diamond pave cone earrings, designed by Genevieve Jones.

One of the most iconic looks of the punk rock fashion trend is the stud, and Mad Men’s January Jones wore her own take on this look with these 18k yellow gold, opal and diamond pave cone earrings, designed by Genevieve Jones.

Do any of these punk-inspired pieces inspire you? While perhaps not part of your everyday wear, do you have any “punkier” jewelry favorites you turn to for a fun night out?

Main image shows Jack Vartanian Glam Leopard Spinel Earrings

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The horse is a pervasive motif in the design world, and this year it will bolt out of the gate with more fanfare than ever. According to  the Chinese Zodiac calender 2014 is the “Year of the Horse.”

Horse shaped diamond

The Chinese Zodiac uses 12 animal signs to predict people’s futures and personalities. Among many traits, the horse represents absolute happiness, vivaciousness, wisdom and loyalty. It is said that those born in the year of the equine have a dynamic spirit, a pursuit for freedom, and a competitive nature. A prancing horse is a sign of success and positive thinking.

Not limited to cowboys and polo players, equestrian-inspired motifs are the classic fashion trend that just won’t quit, from home décor to the runways of Fashion Week in New York and Paris. The enduring image of the horse and the lifestyle surrounding these magnificent animals can be found at every price point this year –  whether it’s a horseshoe charm, a cuff or bangle with horse-bit accents, or the image of a young mare on a necklace or earrings.

A Diamond and Emerald Horse Brooch, by Cartier. Photo courtesy Christies.

The 2014 luxury jewelry market is likely to overflow with imagery of the beautiful and majestic horse. Christie’s New York is already in the winner’s circle with this 18K white gold Cartier brooch set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and an emerald eye.

The empowering equestrian trend is not for women alone. Men will appreciate this symbol of strength and vitality displayed on cuff links, bracelets, watches and money clips.

Some jewelry makers are injecting the spirit of the wild into luxury collections designed specifically for the Year of the Horse. Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin unveiled their limited edition Metiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac series. The rose gold and platinum timepieces showcase Grand Feu enamelling, Chinese images of leaves and bamboo stalks that float over the dial, and a trusty stallion emblazoned on top.

18K Rose and White Gold Horse Bangle with Diamonds and White Enamel. Courtesy of Roberto Coin.

Italian jeweler Roberto Coin, a longtime sponsor of equestrian events and lover of Arabian horses, plans to release his Cheval Chinois collection in 2014. The items will join those from his Animalier series, like the flexible bangle above originally created for the Sheik of Dubai in celebration of a new racing track.

However you choose to incorporate the Year of the Horse in your jewelry decisions, it will be sure to bring you great joy and energy.

Main image of horse pendant. Courtesy of Toledo Wildlife Works of Art.

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Want to see some exquisite jewelry? Then make for A Quest for Beauty: The Art of Van Cleef & Arpels at the Bowers Museum, Santa Ana, CA (October 27, 2013 through February 15, 2014).

The Bowers Museum has curated more than 200 iconic pieces made by the storied jewelry house. Jewelry is organized around four themes: Elegance, Exoticism, Femininity, and Nature. Expect to see remarkable craftsmanship, dazzling gemstones, and a parade of innovative and timeless works.

Van Cleef & Arpels Dragon clip, 1969. Image courtesy of Bowers Museum.

Dragons in the East symbolize power, luck, and strength, while the coral ball represents the pursuit of wisdom. This dragon clip from 1969 is a dramatic example of “Exoticism.”

Van Cleef & Arpels Spanish Dancer clip 1941. Image courtesy of Bowers Museum.

Dancers were one of Van Cleef & Arpels signature pieces, and became a popular symbol of hope during World War II. This Spanish dancer clip (circa 1941) shows the creative use of rubies and emeralds to create visual accents and a sense of depth; the dancer’s face is a single diamond.

Founded in 1906, Van Cleef and Arpels is one of the world’s most prestigious jewelry houses. It has designed crowns for royalty, jewelry for celebrities like Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and Elizabeth Taylor, and popularized the Mystery Setting (no prongs visibly securing the gemstones).

Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Pastilles clip. Image courtesy of Bowers Museum.

This Mystery Set Pastilles clip (circa 1951) is made of platinum, yellow gold, osmior, rubies, and diamonds. Notice that there are no prongs holdings the stones in place – a feat that required outstanding lapidary skills.

Van Cleef & Arpels Dragon Vanity Case, 1923. Image courtesy of Bowers Museum.

Vanity cases – a trendy alternative to handbags in the 1920s – were another popular object created by Van Cleef and Arpels. Each one had a unique surface decoration that “demonstrated a staggering mastery of jewelry techniques,” according to Van Cleef & Arpels by Sylvie Raulet.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace. Image courtesy of Bowers Museum.

Another iconic piece by Van Cleef and Arpels, this Zip necklace (circa 1955) can be zippered and turned into a bracelet – extraordinary difficult accomplishments when working with gold (which is a soft metal) and fine gemstones. The first piece was made at the request of the Duchess of Windsor.

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A treasure trove of jewels that lay hidden underground for nearly 300 years is now on display at the Museum of London.  Nearly a century after its discovery, the entire collection is being exhibited together for the first time. Workers demolishing a tenement house in the Cheapside district of London in 1912 discovered the priceless Elizabethan and Jacobean jewelry, loose gems and objects buried in a cellar. The treasure became known as “The Cheapside Hoard,” but the identity of its owner remains an enigma.

“The Cheapside Hoard tells a thrilling tale of mystery and discovery, with every jewel and gemstone unlocking a story,” said Sharon Ament, Museum of London Director. “It has a lot more to tell the world than simply the look and feel of the jewels themselves.”

The undisturbed, subterranean resting place kept most items from the Cheapside Hoard well-preserved, like this pomander, or scent bottle, that once hung from a chain. This golden jewel is set with carved chalcedony leaves, rubies, pink sapphires and diamonds, and decorated with white enamel.

Courtesy of the Museum of London; photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

This salamander brooch contains cabochon Colombian emeralds and table-cut diamonds from India. The origin of the gemstones in this iconic piece provides historical insight into the international gem trade during the late 1500s and early 1600s. The underside of the brooch depicts the sophisticated enameling skills as well as the complex curved pins designed to keep the jewel in place.

Courtesy of the Museum of London; photos by Robert Weldon/GIA

Due to its exquisite workmanship, this one-of-a-kind pocket watch in a massive, polished hexagonal Colombian emerald, was likely designed for nobility. Its gold dial with green enamel is visible through the hinged cover created from a thin slice of the emerald crystal.

Courtesy of the Museum of London; photos by Robert Weldon/GIA

We’ll be covering the exhibit in detail in an upcoming post, so be sure to subscribe to the feed for updates. In the meantime, for an expanded “behind-the-scenes” look at the Cheapside Hoard exhibition with exclusive video footage, visit GIA’s Fall 2013 issue of Gems & Gemology.

Main Image: A rose-cut sapphire and diamond cross pendant. Courtesy of the Museum of London; photos by Robert Weldon/GIA.

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World-renowned Parisian jeweler Joel A. Rosenthal will debut an exhibit titled Jewels by JAR at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York on November 20,2013 which runs through March 9, 2014. The retrospective of more than 300 pieces is the first collection at the Museum devoted to a contemporary jewelry artist.

Rosenthal, who works under the name JAR, is known for his sculptural and colorful three-dimensional replicas of nature.  His blossoms and creatures come alive with thousands of tiny stones anchored in a setting style called pavé . Rosenthal’s love for the camellia is evident throughout his work, and on the door to his exclusive Paris boutique, where a bronze version of the flower is carved into a doorbell.

Intricately placed rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds on this floral brooch create the look of a camellia picked straight from the garden set in silver and gold. Image courtesy The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Collectors marvel at JAR’s beautifully  intricate designs, in which  the jewels’  gradations of color give the finished piece a painterly effect.  Oftentimes,  pieces are constructured on a core of oxidized silver to suppress the sheen of metal in order to highlight the color of a stone or pearl. While some of the gems used are exceptional, the craftsmanship of their unusual arrangement is what makes JAR truly visionary.

The form of a colorful butterfly in mid-flight is a JAR favorite, with the antennae often purposefully asymetrical. This brooch is set with sapphires, fire opals, rubies, amethyst, garnets, diamonds, silver and gold. Image courtesy The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Rosenthal formed this regal zebra brooch from black-and-white banded agate, and covered the bridle and feather plume with tiny sparkling diamonds. Rosenthal’s bejeweled animals  often stare  with eyes gleaming  with brilliant gems.

This regal zebra brooch from black-and-white banded agate is from the collection of Ann Getty. Image courtesy The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Born in New York, Rosenthal moved to Paris after graduating from Harvard. His brilliant eye for detail as a needlepoint  designer eventually translated into jewelry design.  A small, hidden boutique on the Place Vendôme became the home of JAR in 1978, and is the same space he occupies today.  Perfecting one-of-a-kind creations that express the personality of each individual buyer is a time-consuming process for JAR. , but the exclusive club of private clients is happy to wait.

Additional information on the exhibition can be found on the The Metropolitan Museum of Art website.

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Tony Duquette and Hutton Wilkinson are two jewelry designers acclaimed for their original work.

More is More: Tony Duquette – Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry, the duo’s first-ever all-jewelry exhibit, debuted on Oct. 10 at GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad, CA. The inventive body of work, which will be on display through March 2014, embraces a wide variety of styles, periods and palettes often showcasing unusual gemstones paired with rare materials in whimsical designs.Duquette first found fame creating costumes and sets for musicals during the Golden Age of Hollywood. His film work included The Ziegfeld Follies, starring Fred Astaire and Lucille Bremer; Lovely to Look At, with Zsa Zsa Gabor; and To Catch a Thief, with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. Legendary directors Vincent Minnelli and Alfred Hitchcock sought out the freelance designer for his ability to bring bold, fantastical creations to their sets.

Duquette created his early jewelry pieces at the same time he was designing ballroom scenes and fashion and dream sequences for MGM studios, 20th Century Fox, and Universal Studios. “I will use anything that will help me capture the quality I am seeking; what I find in the streets, in the attic, on the desert, in the sea, the gnarled tree root, the snail’s own shell. To make incrustations with nature and time, to cast a spell, the essence of invention… a personal culture,” Duquette said of his work.

Wilkinson, who began his apprenticeship under Duquette at the age of 18, spent the next 25 years working with him. Wilkinson’s jewelry designs have been worn by Raquel Welch, Joan Allen, Faye Dunaway, Sharon Stone, Liza Minnelli, Drew Barrymore, and Reese Witherspoon, among others.

Check out some of Duquette and Wilkson’s pieces below, handpicked from the collection by GIA Exhibit Developer McKenzie Santimer, or take a virtual tour of the exhibit.

Pond Scum necklace. courtesy of a private collector.

The name of Duquette’s and Wilkinson’s stunning bracelet is Pond Scum – but don’t be fooled by the title. The duo was clearly seeing something beautiful in a patch of landscape most might have dismissed as something unattractive.

“The malachite slices could represent lilly pads in a pond; the beads and citrine resemble petals and leaves that pool up against rocks and tree trunks. Wearing this bracelet is like wearing a piece of nature,” says Santimer.

Barriera Corallina necklace. Courtesy of a private collector.

Barriera Corallina is a striking combination of coral, cultured pearl, peridot, and 18K gold.

“The unique characteristics of each pearl lend an ethereal beauty to the piece. The coral evokes seaweed, and creates a stunning contrast to the pearls. It’s easy to imagine a mermaid wearing this ocean garland,” observes Santimer.

Imperial Dragons ring. Courtesy of a private collector.

Entitled Imperial Dragons, these rings of carved white jade, tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline, citrine, diamond, and 18K gold, are examples of exquisite craftsmanship. The rings also tell the legend of the Foo Dogs – lions that guard palaces, tombs, and other important buildings.

“Imperial dragons is a synthesis of ancient Chinese legends and traditional materials like jade and modern jewelry making techniques, seen in the claws grasping the center stones. The gnarled knuckles and textured skin show masterful craftsmanship,” notes Santimer.

Fantastic Cross brooch.

Fantastic Cross uses fantastical elements. Sharks’ teeth give the emerald and diamond brooch sharp, ominous tips. Black paint fleck the tentacle-like structures bordering the pearls. This piece is proof that unorthodox materials became something extraordinary in the hands of Duquette and Wilkinson

Phoenix Spider brooch.

With its shelled back and undulating arms, the Phoenix Spider is extremely lifelike. The use of enamel (the black and green spots dotting the piece) is quite ingenious, and reflects a painter’s – rather than a jeweler’s – design sensibilities. The piece is also versatile: it can be worn as a hat pin, on a blouse, or any other article of clothing.

More is More will be on view at GIA in Carlsbad through March 2014. We invite you to visit the exhibit, and hope you get to enjoy these remarkable works for yourself. To schedule an individual or group tour, please email or call (800) 421-7250, ext. 4116.

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Ken McGrath, GIA graduate and filmmaker of Masters of Dreams. Image © GIA.

Masters of Dreams held its West coast premiere at GIA headquarters in Carlsbad on September 18. For your viewing pleasure, we’ve included the trailer below. Enjoy!

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While we all can’t make it to the America’s Cup in San Francisco this September, we can enjoy it vicariously. Souped-up sloops will be slicing through the bay at 50 miles an hour – a speed so spectacular that they’ll literally be flying out of the water.

Grandstands will be set up along the shoreline for spectators to “ooh” and “ah.” And the rich and beautiful are sure to be in attendance.

In celebration of the America’s Cup, here are some nautical-themed pieces that will make you feel like you’ve just been splashed by the ocean spray.

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Adding to its educational efforts in Africa, GIA recently entered into a collaboration with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to provide Mandela Day Libraries to four South African elementary schools.

Example of the inside of a Mandela container library.

The Mandela Day Libraries project began in 2011, bringing recycled shipping containers that have been outfitted with flooring, electricity, book shelves, and a selection of books to schools without reading facilities. Librarians run the facilities and work with the children to inspire a love of reading among South Africa’s youth. For many children, these libraries will be their first access to reading material in their own languages.

Sello Hatang, Chief Executive of the Nelson Mandela Foundation, and Susan Jacques, chair of the GIA Board of Governors, sign a Memorandum of Understanding between GIA and the Nelson Mandela Foundation.

GIA will provide libraries to two schools in 2013 and two more in 2014. The partnership, which focuses on increasing literacy among African youth, is closely aligned with GIA’s education-centered mission and benefication initiative.

GIA supports the diamond industry benefication effort, which promotes activities like sorting, cutting and polishing being conducted in-country in order to bring more value to the countries that are the source of the gems. GIA’s educational programs further these efforts by providing education that will help local communities develop and improve the skills  that can lead to sustainable employment in the gem and jewelry industry.

In addition to this exciting collaboration with the Mandela Day Libraries, GIA’s educational programs for youth include its Junior Gemologist Program™, which was introduced in 2012 in Johannesburg and Botswana, and gives 10-to-15-year-old students the opportunity to discover the world of gemology through hands-on, practical training. More than 1,000 students receive gem and jewelry educational materials and learn about jewelry program options at the Johannesburg Career Indaba trade show during Africa Education Week.

Learn more about the collaboration between GIA and the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory.

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The world eagerly awaits news of the arrival of the newest British Royal, due to be born any day. The royal couple’s child will officially be known as His or Her Royal Highness Prince or Princess of Cambridge, a title fitting for a child that will likely inherit the throne, and along with it, the right to wear the British Crown Jewels. GIA has highlighted a few of the spectacular jewels, which are mostly kept secured at the Tower of London. 

The Sovereign’s Sceptre features the 530.2 carat Cullinan I diamond, which can be removed and worn as a brooch. Photo courtesy of Alan Jobbins.

The Sovereign’s Sceptre, originally dating back to the 1661 coronation of King Charles II, was redesigned in 1910 to accommodate the 530.20 carat gem, the Great Star of Africa. This diamond was the largest of the 105 diamonds of nearly flawless quality cut from the famous 3,106.75 carat Cullinan diamond.  If the first child of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge turns out to be a girl, the diamond can be removed from the sceptre and worn as a brooch for royal events.

The most frequently worn royal crown, the Imperial State Crown, features the Black Prince’s Ruby, one of the U.K.’s oldest Crown Jewels (14th c.).  Despite the name, gemologists determined that the ‘Ruby’ is actually a red spinel, most likely from mines in Asia known for yielding exceptionally large spinel crystals. The gem known as St. Edward’s Sapphire adorns the cross at the top of the crown, the famous 317.40 carat Cullinan II diamond (also known as the Lesser Star of Africa) is set on the front, and the back band features the stunning 104 carat Stuart Sapphire (17th c.).

If the baby is a girl, she will have a number of important jewels to choose from for her own coronation, including The Coronation Necklace, worn by Queens Alexandra, Mary, Elizabeth and Her Majesty The Queen at their coronation ceremonies. When Queen Victoria lost many family jewels in 1857, Garrard, the official crown jeweler at the time, was commissioned to design new pieces using gems taken from swords and other “useless things.” The Coronation Necklace was worn frequently by Queen Victoria and features 26 stones– nine between 8.25 and 11.25 carats – which were taken from a Garter badge and sword hilt.

Are you anxiously awaiting news of the arrival of the royal baby?  With the current popularity of ‘push presents,’ a jewelry gift given to the mother after giving birth, what do you think is an appropriate push present for the Duchess of Cambridge after giving birth to the future King or Queen of England?

Learn more about some of the other most prized British Royal Jewels.

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