Once destined for industrial use, low-quality rough diamonds were thought to have too many impurities or inclusions to be used in high-end rings, bracelets, and necklaces.  But today, these diamonds are making their way into luxury jewelry. So why the sudden interest?

Rough diamonds are fashionable in part because they are natural and unaltered. An additional factor in the rising popularity of rough diamonds is that they are generally less expensive than polished diamonds. In many cases, jewelry featuring colored rough diamonds provides a more affordable alternative to colored polished diamonds, which while very popular, are also very expensive.

Uncut diamonds are readily available in a rainbow of colors, as seen in these chandelier earrings from the “Astra” collection by Diamonds in the Rough. These stunning earrings feature 45.95 carats of rough diamonds ranging in color from dark brown to light yellow, accented with 1.97 carats of polished diamonds.

Jewelry with rough diamonds also has an artisanal look. Jewelry connoisseurs prize one-of-a-kind, handmade jewelry, and rough diamonds fit the part.

Designers are showcasing the natural beauty of the stones as they emerged from the earth, generally  untouched by human hand. Todd Reed, a designer who pioneered the style, made this provocative statement about diamonds: “the most perfect cut is still an uncut.”

This 20.25 carat diamond bracelet by Todd Reed looks edgy and ancient. The design is raw contemporary, yet the piece resembles a cobblestone road or a Roman fort.

Rough diamonds have become so popular that they’re showing up as center stones in engagement rings – traditionally the domain of polished, faceted beauties.

These modern engagement rings by Diamonds in the Rough have a contemporary design, yet the rough diamonds give them an ancient look. For the bride wanting a truly unique, one-of-a-kind ring, a rough diamond might be just the thing.

Diamond slices – thinly sliced sections of large, highly included rough diamonds – have also been making their way into jewelry. The idea, say designers who create these pieces, is to cut the rough to show interesting patterns while keeping the stone’s original outline. In the same way that the rarity of a diamond is a contributing factor to its cost, the more interesting the inclusions and their patterns are in a diamond slice, the higher the price.

A diamond slice hangs from an 18ct blackened white gold chain. Designer Susan Foster calls this slate-grey diamond slice design an “opulent finishing touch” for evening wear.

What seems to be sudden interest in rough diamonds is actually not new. Indian jewelers have long recognized the beauty of uncut gemstones. The tradition of using them is centuries old, and it still continues in modern design houses

So are rough diamonds a fashion fixture or a flash on the scene?

The green movement is growing. One-of-a-kind jewelry is in demand. Rough diamonds are affordable. Put these trends together, and the future for jewelry with rough diamonds is bright.

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What better way to celebrate the love for your significant other than by giving heart shaped jewelry and diamonds this Valentine’s Day? As the world’s foremost expert in gems and jewelry, GIA offers a few tips and best practices before you set foot in your neighborhood jewelry store.

Valentine’s Day has a long and storied tradition. The heart has been celebrated as the dwelling place of romantic love for centuries. Some scholars speculate that the earlier winged Cupids with heart-shaped arrows depicted in Renaissance art symbolized it, while others say the heart as the seat of affection dates back the first century BCE.

Valentine’s Day was certainly celebrated during the 16^th century. Shakespeare wrote about it in Hamlet, when Ophelia said:

To-morrow is Saint Valentine’s day,
All in the morning betime,
And I a maid at your window,
To be your Valentine.

Hearts and Valentine’s Day were forever wedded when Hallmark began mass  production of Valentine Day cards in 1913. Now it’s celebrated around the world, and you’re likely to find heart-shaped jewelry and heart-shaped diamonds in your neighborhood jewelry store.

This heart-shaped ruby ring is a classic Valentine’s Day gift. Diamonds surrounding the 8.01 ct Burmese ruby, set in platinum, make this piece a heart stopper. Courtesy of Jan Goodman Co.

So how do you pick the perfect bejeweled heart for your heartthrob? Make sure the proportions of the lobes of the heart are the same size. You might want to choose a stone rich in color – it can capture the emotion of love. If you’re buying a ring and your significant other is physically active, make sure the point is protected by a V-shaped prong to prevent it from being damaged. Heart-shaped earrings or a necklace are always a good choice. For more shopping tips read our “Purchasing Fancy Shaped Diamonds” buying guide.

Now that you’re ready to buy a symbol of love for your significant other, enjoy these exquisite examples of wearable tokens of affection.

These Smiling Lotus suite by Wallace Chan hold a secret known only to a gemologist – the hearts are made of three different layers: carnelian/red agate (bottom), mother of pearl (center), and rock crystal quartz (top). The arrangement gives the hearts a rosy hue. A large diamond in the center of all the hearts is the “cherry on top” of this jeweled confection.

Courtesy of Wallace Chan.

These charming earrings are classic pieces many women may own. The gold backdrop makes the diamonds sparkle all the brighter.

Diamonds surround by gold earrings. Courtesy of Denise James.

The pendant is fashioned from 14k white and yellow gold with 1.30 carats of diamonds. The name of this piece – Rockstar Heart – is a modern take on traditional heart-shaped diamond jewelry. Someone who is a bit of a wild child would probably gush over it.

“Rockstar Heart” pendant is fashioned from 14k white and yellow gold with 1.30 carats of diamonds.

This uber-trendy piece appeals to those who have a bit of Goth in their soul. Think: dystopian love. A black and colorless cubic zirconia (CZ) pendant makes this an affordable alternative to ones made of colorless and black diamonds. The rubber chain is the finishing touch on this jewel for those living on the fringe.

Cubic zirconia (CZ) in black and colorless diamonds hanging from a rubber chain. Courtesy of Jane Smith.

Topped with a regal ribbon of gold and diamonds, this blue zircon heart-shaped pendant in yellow gold looks like something a duchess would wear to a ball.

Blue zircon heart-shaped pendant in yellow gold. Courtesy of Andrew Sarosi.

An impressive number of diamonds for an impressive ring! This pink sapphire stunner is guaranteed to elicit a gasp. Encircling the stone with 126 diamonds ( 1.22 tcw) makes it an even more dazzling ring.

Pink sapphire surrounded by 126 diamonds. Courtesy of Omi Privé.

This striking piece by Barbara Westwood makes a statement. Black onyx is an unusual color choice for a heart (carved by Steve Walters), while the 18K gold setting undulates and flares like flames of passion. It’s pulsating, alive, intense – and not for the faint of heart. Courtesy of Barbara Fine Art Jewelry. Photo credit Sky Hall

Black onxy in an 18K gold setting. Courtesy of Barbara Fine Art Jewelry. Photo credit Sky Hall.

Are you planning to buy a piece of jewelry for your significant other this Valentine’s Day? Which of these pieces best express your love – or is it something entirely different?

Main image Coast Signature Color ring features a vibrant 3.90CT heart shaped spinel surrounded by diamonds, and set in platinum. Courtesy of Platinum Guild International.

The post A (Bejeweled) Heart for Your Valentine appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The unique beauty and appeal of fancy cut diamonds make them the perfect choice for gifts of the season. Shoppers now have a wide array of choices, so there is something for every taste. In this installment of our 2013 Holiday Buying Guide series, you will learn about some of the special characteristics of fancy cut diamonds before you ever step into a jewelry store.If you’re already familiar with the 4Cs of Diamond Quality, you know how GIA grades the color and clarity of colorless diamonds, and how GIA evaluates cut for round brilliant cut diamonds. But if you don’t know the difference between diamond shape and diamond cut, you might want to take a quick refresher before reading on.

In selecting your fancy cut diamond, it will be important for you to know if the diamond is well cut. If it is too shallow, there could be a greater risk of chipping the diamond. If it is too deep, it may appear to be less bright. While GIA does not grade the overall proportions of fancy cut diamonds, a GIA Diamond Grading Report does contain an assessment of the diamond’s Finish, which includes Polish and Symmetry. When the report denotes these as “Excellent” or “Very Good,” it’s an indication of the diamond’s cut quality.

You don’t have to be a diamond expert, but understanding the distinct features of each shape will help to ensure a smart purchase.

OVAL:

Oval is a shape that pairs well with other shapes of gems in multi-stone rings. Ovals have the added benefit of appearing larger because of their elongated shape. When selecting an oval diamond, look for even, well-rounded shoulders.

Your personal preference will likely decide which width of oval is more appealing, however the optimal length-to-width ratio is 1.33-1.66:1.

Ovals cut in the brilliant style display a brightness similar to round brilliant cut diamonds. Oval brilliant cut diamonds often display a “bow-tie.” Seen with the naked eye, this is a dark area which looks like two triangular pieces joined in the center of the stone. When the diamond is viewed face-up, you want the “bow-tie” to be minimized as much as possible.

Oval Diamond

MARQUISE:

Symmetry is an important factor for all fancy cut diamonds. Even the smallest difference can create an appearance that is not balanced. Check that each half is a mirror image of the other, and for marquises that the two points align. Like oval, this shape pairs well with other gem shapes in multi-stone rings, and if a prong mounting is chosen, V-shaped prongs will help protect the points.

If a marquise shape is too long, it could impact its durability. Look for a length-to-width ratio of 1.75-2.25:1.

Like the oval, the marquise diamond that is cut in the brilliant style should be examined for a “bow-tie” effect, and the points of the marquise should be examined for inclusions.

Marquise Shaped Diamond

PEAR:

Like all fancy cut diamonds, the pear diamond comes in a variety of proportions, however the preferred length-to-width ratio should range between 1.50-1.75:1.

Examine the point for inclusions and color concentration. The wings on each side of the point should be symmetrical. The rounded end should appear like a semi-circle. As with the oval and marquise, the pear brilliant may show a “bow tie.”

If a prong setting is chosen, it should include a V-shaped prong at the point because that will help protect it from damage.

Pear Shaped Diamond

HEART:

An obvious symbol of love and romance, the heart-shaped diamond should have two identical halves, and the cleft should be distinct. The wings and lobes need to be even with the lobes curving down the cleft.

The ideal length-to-width ratio is approximately 1.00:1. Check the point for any visible inclusions. As with the oval, marquise and pear, the heart shape may show a “bow tie.”

It may be difficult to perceive the heart in a diamond of less than .50 carats. For smaller size stones, a bezel or three-prong setting better preserves the shape.

Heart Shaped Diamond

TRIANGULAR:

You’ll often encounter triangular-shaped diamonds cut in the brilliant style, referred to by jewelers as trillion or trilliant. While this shape is sometimes set as a solitaire, it’s more commonly used as side stones in a multi-stone setting.

Attention should be paid to clarity, since even small inclusions may be more visible in this shallow shape. The preferred length-to-width ration is 1:00:1.

A protective prong setting is recommended to keep the sharp points from chipping.

Triangular Shaped Diamond

SQUARE:

Square diamonds are spotted almost daily on celebrity fingers this year. The halo setting used for brilliant cut square gems was one of the most popular engagement ring trends of 2013.

The list of cuts available for square shapes is a long one. Some of the trade names you may come across while shopping include Asscher, barion, cushion, princess, radiant and Quadrillion (as pictured below). All sides should be parallel.

Square Shaped Diamond

RECTANGULAR:

Similar to square shapes, there are numerous cuts for a rectangular look including baguette, barion, emerald cut, and radiant.

Avoid uneven, narrow or no corners and sides that are not parallel.

The emerald cut or a square step cut will require higher clarity since inclusions might be easier to see.

Rectangular Shaped Diamond

One general shopping tip for fancy cut diamonds is to view them in daylight. Pricing of the various shapes can be complicated, so it’s best to compare stones of the same shape, cutting style and similar carat weight. Ask to see the grading reports for the diamonds you are considering. They will help you compare each diamond’s quality factors.

For additional assistance on jewelry purchases this season, the 2013 Holiday Buying Guide series is a great resource to make you a more informed shopper.

Part 1: Diamond Jewelry Trends for the 2013 Holiday Season

Part 2: 4Cs Tips for Holiday Diamond Jewelry Shopping

Part 3: How to Read a GIA Grading Report Video

Part 4: Asking the Right Questions for a Diamond Purchase

The top image all weighing approximately one carat, represent a variety of shapes and cutting styles. From left: cushion, cut corner square step-cut, emerald, modified radiant, oval, marquise and pear. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

The post Holiday Buying Guide Part 5: Tips for Purchasing Fancy Cut Diamonds appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Some diamond cut’s never go out of style, especially when they boast a royal heritage and have been redesigned and reinvented. Such is the case with the popular Asscher cut.

The Asscher cut was first developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, and became popular in the Art-Deco movement and following World War I. Although similar to an emerald cut, the Asscher cut’s 58 facets are larger and wide-set (three rows on the top, three rows on the bottom), and the stone is nearly octagonal in shape. Joseph Asscher saw an opportunity to better use rough diamond crystals to his advantage, therefore retaining more weight than the stone could with other styles of cutting.

Asscher Cut Earring

Because of the shape of the stone and the way the facets are cut, Asscher cut stones retain a classic appearance with a better balance of scintillation than a similar emerald cut, while still exhibiting a quieter aesthetic than a modern brilliant style cut.

Although the original Asscher cut is mostly seen in Art-Deco style jewelry from the early twentieth century, two very important (and world-renowned) gems carry the Asscher name. Originally cut from the same 3,105 ct. rough diamond by Joseph Asscher and Abraham Asscher, the Cullinan I diamond and the Cullinan II diamond are two of the most famous stones in the world. The pear-shaped Cullinan I, at 530.20 cts, sits atop the royal scepter in the British crown jewels, and the cushion-shaped Cullinan II (317.4 cts.) lies in the British imperial state crown.

Over the last ten years, it seems as though mentions of Asscher cut diamonds in popular bridal media has increased in the United States, which may be due to Edward Asscher’s redesign of the diamond. After visiting the GIA’s International Gemological Symposium in 1999 and realizing that the Asscher cut was still popular in the United State, Edward Asscher (grandson of Joseph Asscher, who created the original cut) returned to the Netherlands with an idea to craft a new, more dynamic species of Asscher cut diamonds, with even more brilliance and shine than before. The Royal Asscher cut diamond boasts 16 more facets than the original Asscher cut’s 58, allowing the diamond to catch light much better. Edward Asscher added two additional rows of eight facets each to the bottom of the stone, and subsequently making the rows narrower, he was able to keep the classic feel of his grandfather’s original cut while making the stone’s appearance more dynamic. With both the Asscher cut and the Royal Asccher cut, these angles and proportions used are critical to the beauty and brilliance of the diamond.

Nowadays, both the original Asscher cut and the Royal Asscher cut diamonds are popular, either in vintage jewelry stores or as new stones. Asscher cuts can often vary slightly in cut, proportions, and angles, as the cutter of the diamond decides the ultimate details of their rendition of the cut. However, the Royal Asscher cut boasts an international patent, meaning that the Royal Asscher Company limits the range of angles that can be used in cutting the diamond and is the only company allowed to cut a Royal Asscher stone.

The post The Asscher Cut: A Cut of Royalty and Reinvention appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt made headlines earlier this year when they finally announced their engagement. Soon thereafter, Jolie was spotted wearing an engagement ring that featured a large, Emerald cut diamond center stone. While an Emerald cut center stone is not the traditional look for an engagement ring, non-traditional engagement rings seem to be making news more frequently.

Many consumers admire the traditional outlines and understated elegance of an emerald cut diamond. The emerald cut is a type of step-cut diamond, and is the most popular in that category. The emerald cut’s four longer sides have beveled corners with two, three, or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion.

Emerald cuts do not hide imperfections well due to the long step cuts, so inclusions become more obvious in lower clarity diamonds. Emerald cuts can have 49 facets or more, yet are less scintillating due to the step cut style of faceting. Since lots of scintillation masks inferior color, this type of facet pattern with its lower scintillation seems to emphasize inferior color.

Remember, when shopping for an emerald cut diamond you need to choose the highest quality stone within your budget. Be sure to purchase from a jeweler that offers a GIA report with their diamond or request that a loose stone be submitted to GIA for grading.

Learn more about other diamond cuts and shapes with this great article, How Diamonds Shape Up.

The post The Elegant Emerald Cut Diamond appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

When it comes to diamonds, most consumers tend to use the words “cut” and “shape” interchangeably.  But for diamond professionals, there is a big difference.  Diamond Shape refers to the outline of the stone (pear, oval, round, etc.).  Diamond cut refers to a stone’s facet arrangement.  So a shape can be faceted in a variety of ways, or cutting styles. The most common facet arrangement, known as the brilliant cut, is applied to many shapes. It consists of 58 facets (if a culet facet is included) or 57 facets (if the culet is pointed). There will be one octagonal table, or top flat surface of the diamond and 16 kite-shaped facets and 40 triangular shaped facets and an optional small octagonal facet at the culet.

Round Shape

The round shape is the most popular, often used as a solitaire in engagement rings, earrings, or pendants. It’s estimated that 75% of all diamonds sold are round-shaped and according to research by The Knot, 53% of engagement ring center stones are round. The cutting style known as the round brilliant has been around since the 1700’s, but has been modified over the years.  The angles we see in today’s modern round brilliant – angles that help to enhance the diamond’s fire and brilliance – were first suggested by Henry Morse of Boston in the 1860’s and later slightly enhanced by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. In 2005,  a scientific way to assess — and help cutters plan and predict — the cut quality of round brilliant cut diamonds was introduced by GIA.

Oval Shape

The oval shape has probably the longest known history, with the first mention of an oval shaped diamond occurring in 1304:  the famous Koh-I-Noor, which now resides in the Tower of London. One of the most notable oval brilliant cut diamonds is the 184 carat Victoria, which was cut in 1887. The oval brilliant was popularized and modernized in the 1960′s. Containing fire and brilliance, the oval is suggestive of the round shape but is more unique. This shape also creates an illusion that the finger is longer and slimmer. The oval can be narrow or wide, depending on personal preference.

Marquise Shape

The marquise shape was named in 1745 for the Marquise de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV of France.  The long and narrow shape, said to resemble the shape of the Marquise’s mouth,  creates an illusion that the diamond is of greater size. Symmetry is quite important with this shape, as even the slightest difference can create and uneven, imbalanced look.

Pear Shape

The pear shapes trace their history to the 1400’s, with the brilliant style being added in the 1700’s.  Pears have gently rounded shoulders and wings (the sides near the point) for an appealing outline. The point should always be directed out toward the fingers of the wearer, and the shape has a slimming effect on the hand. This shape is similar to the marquise shape, in that symmetry is extremely important.

Emerald Cut

An octagonal shaped diamond, the emerald cut was designed to highlight the qualities of emeralds. This cut is highly coveted due to its square or rectangle table-top cut and step-cut facets. The emerald cut’s smoothly beveled corners add visual appeal and provide a secure setting area for the prongs. This cut results in a more mirror-like look and requires a stone of very high quality.

Square shaped diamonds include the princess cut and quadrillion cut.  These cutting styles were created in the 1980′s and are also very popular cuts for engagement rings. The square shape creates the illusion of a larger diamond.  A princess or quadrillion cut diamond should always be set with prongs that protect the four corners–the areas most prone to chipping.

Among other square or rectangular shaped diamonds, some of the most notable cutting styles include:

The cushion cut. The brilliant style has been around since the mid-1700’s, it was the most common cut until the early 20^th century. Originally designed to retain as much weight from the original crystal as possible, this brilliant cut combines a square cut with rounded corners (much like a cushion). Antique dealers are often on the lookout for the older version of these diamonds, as their light patterns tend to be chunkier and more distinctive than modern-cut diamonds.

The radiant and barion cuts. Perfected around in the 1970’s, these create vibrant and fiery diamonds, ideal as a center-stone surrounded by smaller diamonds.

The baguette cut. Named for the French word baguette, which means “long rod,” this cut became popular during the 1920′s, an era when the Art Deco movement encouraged geometric shape and symmetrical flow. This cut is generally used for smaller side stones. They are often measured by dimensional size, rather than carat weight.

The Asscher cut.  Developed in 1902 and named after its creator, Joseph Asscher. It was also a popular cut for Art Deco jewelry. It is similar to the emerald cut, though it differs in that its facets are larger and it tends to be square rather than rectangular. Around 2002, this cut became popular again as modifications were made to the cut.

Heart Shape

The heart shape diamond can be a beautiful symbol of love and romance. A skilled cutter creates the heart shape, always keeping an eye on the heart’s balance and symmetry. This shape is ideal as a pendant and is very popular around Valentine’s Day.

Last, and by no means least, triangular shaped diamonds first made their appearance in the 1500’s. Brilliant cut versions of this shape gained popularity in the 1960’s with the appearance of a variation called Trillion. In 1978 an additional variation called the Trilliant came on the market. It was developed as a triangular version of the square-shaped radiant diamond and is sometimes considered an adventurous and provocative diamond choice.

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